Dipping Plog

[relasine]

As a commission painter, I'm always looking for ways to get models painted faster so I can offer cheaper rates to my clients. I've recently made a small investment in some Army Painter Quick Shades (http://www.thearmypainter.com/index.php). Here's my first experiment:

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a316/relasine/Owls%20Eye/DSC_2832copy.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a316/relasine/Owls%20Eye/DSC_2833copy.jpg

Kreoss was primed using Rustoleom Painter's Touch Ivory, the golds picked out using Reaper Dragon Gold, and reds with P3 Sanguine Highlight. I dipped it in Quick Shade Dark Tone, which in retrospect was a little too dark for such a light base color, hence the dirty look. I shook the hell out of it and still had a little too much pooling. Next time I'll try just brushing it on in order to avoid this problem. The pooling isn't really a problem per se. The problem comes with hitting the model with dull coat, where you end up with a "puckering" effect on the pooled areas.

Overall, I'm happy with the first test. I'll be experimenting with this a lot, so if you're interested in this product, keep an eye on this thread.

[sharpe]

So there was no additional highlighting there, and only one shade of dip, correct? Looks pretty good.
I think for those of my friends who like the game but can't or won't paint, I'd recommend trying this. Do you think the technique might work with a ink and medium mix? Namely, is there a specific consistancy you need to get at to have it turn out well?

[relasine]

So there was no additional highlighting there, and only one shade of dip, correct? Looks pretty good.
I think for those of my friends who like the game but can't or won't paint, I'd recommend trying this. Do you think the technique might work with a ink and medium mix? Namely, is there a specific consistancy you need to get at to have it turn out well?
That can work, but the result isn't the same (I know, I've done both). The strange thing about the Quick Shade is that it settles into cracks well, but it manages to be "sticky" enough to not leave a lot of stain at all, which is why it looks highlighted even though it's not.

[TsavongLah]

Can you buy this stuff online?

[chrsjxn]

I actually like this effect a lot.

It looks like soot or ash, which seems very appropriate for Menoth.

[relasine]

Can you buy this stuff online?
Yep. Go to www.thearmypainter.com (http://www.thearmypainter.com). It's really just wood varnish with "something else" mixed in, which makes it rather expensive for what you're paying, but I'm pretty pleased with my first test, and if it saves me painting time, that's a price I'm willing to. Neal at theWarstore.com carries it and Alliance Games now distributes it (if you're in the US, chances are this is where your LGS gets its Warmachine from).

[Capsfan34]

It still turned out better than some of my stuff...

besides it looks like he's been hanging out with Feora. LOL

[nightman]

I actually like this effect a lot.

It looks like soot or ash, which seems very appropriate for Menoth.

I thought the same thing, especially in the pauldrons. Those look really amazing, I like the way the dip pulled off the ashy/sooty look around there.

[relasine]

I'll be testing a couple of Ork Boyz later today and should hopefully have pics up tomorrow after the Quick Shade dries.

[whitekong]

I think painting the dip on will work better, you should have more control. And less pooling.

[JTY]

Army Painter is wood stain, oil based, it requires spirits to cleasn brushes and to thin with.
The 'something else' mixed in is a new label and a higher price.
People have been using woodstain on armies since the 1960's, but Army Painter have made the technique more commonly known and accesible.

For best results paint it on rather than dipping the models, that allows you to control the extent of the pooling.

It is possible to find water based interior woodstains that can be used to an identical effect and don't require turps or spirits.
It is also possible to make your own by combining clear satin varnish with paint or ink to get the colour you want.

[whitekong]

I made my own with future floor finish water and ink. works great and almost free.

[Mr.B]

That actually looks really cool! It gives that battle worn ash kind of look.

[aai]

I think it has too much pooling. I dipped my brother's tau and I shook it really hard. Army painter, just right into the pot, and i flicked a lot of it off, but maybe fire warriors have less "pooling" spots. It just looked perfect, it turned simple basecoats into near seamless blends.

[PretiJewel]

It definitely gives it the dirty look, but you can also see where the pool of dip is so thick that the texture disappears. I agree that the dip shade is too dark on the white robes. I think that for a quickie army for someone who doesn't want to spend any more time than vitally necessary on painting, it'll work, though.

[CT GAMER]

It still turned out better than some of my stuff...

besides it looks like he's been hanging out with Feora. LOL

Yeah my first thought was that it looks "sooty".

I have been thinking about trying this stuff. Be sure to show us some more.

[relasine]

I'm still looking for a good green primer. The stuff I picked up at Home Depot didn't quite stick very well, so I'm still trying to find something that will work...

[Cronix]

I like dirty look on Kreoss, maybe a brush works better. How is the primer of Army Painter?

[relasine]

I like dirty look on Kreoss, maybe a brush works better. How is the primer of Army Painter?
Haven't tried it yet. I've been trying to avoid dropping $15 on Primer, but I'm running out of Krylon/Rustoleom/Valspar options...

[JTY]

It's very good is Army Painter primer.
Pricey certainly, but it's what I've used since they released it and I think it's well worth the money.

Their matte varnish is a good alternative to Testors in Europe as well.

[saxondog]

I can't see wasting $15 on one can of primer. Buy a big bottle of Gesso, water it down and brush it on. I have found this to be way more cost effective.

SFK

[whitekong]

I can't see wasting $15 on one can of primer. Buy a big bottle of Gesso, water it down and brush it on. I have found this to be way more cost effective.

SFK
You use the colored primer so you can skip 1 step in the painting process. It's all about fast and easy.

[AndyFrazer]

I think painting the dip on will work better, you should have more control. And less pooling.

Your Quick Shade is pooling too much in the deep folds.

@whitekong's suggestion should indeed clear that up for you.

It won't slow the process down if you use a big brush (I use a cheap brush I got from an art store).

I use Quick Shade all the time. I used to to use inks and spend ages on models... then family commitments came along and quick shade lets me keep painting without the hassle... as long as your base colours are crisp and well delinated, the effect can be really impressive.

Good luck.

[saxondog]

You use the colored primer so you can skip 1 step in the painting process. It's all about fast and easy.

You could always just tint the white gesso and have any base color you want.
I also am a firmly believe that brushing on your primer is a better way of doing things.

[manymoles]

From my experience spray primer is much more adhesive to mini surface. In case of that it's my first choice for painting gaming minis. Also its speeds the paint progress. Much like dipping wich speeds up the whole shading/highlight issue.
After all is hand priming for whole minis wasted time at least for me. This time I better spend in real painting. Also lacks a hand primed surface the adhesion between the metal and the primer.
In case of money saving I would go completly without primer. You can polish the areas getting metal with a wire brush and dremel tool. After this you can simply ink them for shading and get some real true metal look. To bad this won't work with plastics :(