Choices of making my own board

[warhawk-77]

I was thinking of making 2 more 4x4 boards. But not sure what type I want to
make.

The cloth from Wal mart is cheap and easy to store but don't look great.

2" foam is nice but it costs about $20-$30 per 4x4 board(counting the cost to
paint and flock. So the cost is higher.

Less the 2" foam is cheaper but then I will have to make a frame to make the boards strong enough. So not really cheaper then buying 2" to start with.

Plywood might be cheaper then foam but after you texture it, it will be heavy as he--. ANd might warp from the texture

What do you guys think it best?

[Gareson]

When you say cloth- do you mean "felt"?
If not, you might consider this- craft and fabric stores usually carry a wide variety of colors/shades(especially JoAnn Fabrics if you have one of those nearby). It's durable, looks decent enough and can be folded up- I have several pieces that have survived many years and many games with hardly any sign of wear.

Obviously a textured and flocked foam base is going to look better, but don't disregard felt(nice to have the most mobile of battlefields!). If you want to see some felt used in battles you can go to my Youtube channel and check out any of my Battle Reports...
Spring Felt (http://www.youtube.com/user/Gareson1#p/u/43/V3QF4w41uBc)
"Snow" Felt(a.k.a. White!) (http://www.youtube.com/user/Gareson1#p/u/48/7AZYlIpfk8g)

[CT GAMER]

IF you go with plywood just frame the bottom side with 2x4 to prevent warping.

[warhawk-77]

Felt might work also. The cloth I have seen is green with white mixed it. I have some that works great water that WWII ship game.

Framing the plywood would work but again the cost is going up so might be cheaper to just do 2" foam.

BUt I do need to work up a cost to see what is the cheapest way in the long run.

[CT GAMER]

Felt might work also. The cloth I have seen is green with white mixed it. I have some that works great water that WWII ship game.

Framing the plywood would work but again the cost is going up so might be cheaper to just do 2" foam.

BUt I do need to work up a cost to see what is the cheapest way in the long run.

Keep in mind that you also need to factor in the fact that going cheap initially might end up costing you more in the long run.

Spending the extra money in the beginning to get it right the first time means you won't be replacing the board you skimped on in two months when it breaks...

Having to regularly repair/replace a table that was sub par to begin with isn't going to save you money in the long run.

Get it right the first time and you'll have something that should last you many years of regular use...

[warhawk-77]

2" foam should last a while. You will get dents and damage from time to time but not really away around that. I have seen some people take wood sides on the foam to keep the damage down but it still will need to be repaired from time to time.


I need to check the stores prices but looks like to do 2 4x4 table is going to cost about 30-40 with out flock.

[Gdufner]

I agree with the spend more now to spend less later theory....

I have used several different techniques, all of whihc have held up. We've been using this table for going on 4-5 years, it is 1/4" plywood screwed into a frame. IT is 6' x 4' with room for cards and crap ont he edges. There has been NO warping of anykind, and I just used one-by's to frame the bottom:

(I cut this pict. Four photo limit, it is a basic sand and flock table...If you want to see it let me know.)

These are both either 3/16 or 1/4" mdf in a light frame, both 3 years old now and showing no wear:

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/gdufner/Terrain/SnTab1.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/gdufner/Terrain/CRBoard.jpg

They both fold for easeir storage. "Good side" folds in and the sides don't touch.

These are both 1/4" mdf with foam on top, but the low spaces are straight onto the mdf:

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/gdufner/Terrain/TableHigh.jpg

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i73/gdufner/Side2.jpg

If you want more infor on how I did any of it let me know, otherwise a little extra coin up front is better , IMO.

[CT GAMER]

Those look great. The last one is Slam/throw-tacular!!!

[warhawk-77]

Those are some nice boards.

I was thinking of doing them in 2x4 sections but I don't think and making it modular. But like the full 4x4 look.

Need to measure my jeep and see if a 4x4 will fit in side.

[Tionas]

You have a wrangler? It won't. I can just fit my 2x4 folded board over the back seat folded up.

However, MDF is a good option, you can buy it in 2x4 sheets, either duct tape it together for a flexible hinge and cover it with Flock/printed Wallpaper/Grass mat, and it easily stores anywhere. I've got a Pic somewhere here on the forums...

ah yes. here (http://privateerpressforums.com/showpost.php?p=211123&postcount=38)

[warhawk-77]

I have a Grand Cherokee and they won't fit safely. I might beable to get one in but it will be at the top of the seats and I can't see anything good happening out of that.

SO I am going to do 2x4 sheets those will fit nicely.

Thinking I might do a section with docks, 2 sections mostly clear, and 1 section rocks. Going to start with the clear sections before I start the more detailed ones.

[Gdufner]

If you use plywood, go thicker (More money now to save money later.) I had a modular board and only used 3/16 or 1/4" ply, and the corners turned up after putting glue on it for sand & flock and hills, etc. Go thicker!

[Tionas]

As you can tell by me posting here, I'm a big fan of the MDF instead of the Plywood. Its Cheaper, its lighter, and, it doesn't turn up. we've been using it for years over here...

[Gdufner]

As you can tell by me posting here, I'm a big fan of the MDF instead of the Plywood. Its Cheaper, its lighter, and, it doesn't turn up. we've been using it for years over here...

I should have put more useful info here....I only use MDF now, other than my non-pictured board, like Tionas said, mdf is just more reliable.