View Full Version : IFP lances
Balewin
01-03-2010, 04:23 PM
Ok so I have heard a lot about swapping out the IFP lances for brass rods. I didn't think this would be an issue until mine started busting, now im seriously consdiering it. So could somebody give me something like a tutorial on how to do it without wrecking up my models? Thanks.
crow04
01-03-2010, 05:06 PM
It's way easier than it sounds. Basically, all you do is drill a hole through the hand with a pin vice, and put a cut to length brass rod or tube thourgh the hole, then glue the heads and ends to the rod or tube. I found a tube worked better, as the pewter of the old lance would slip right in, making for a very strong conetion. I've done it on painted IFP and found it easier than on unpainted ones.(it's easier to see the starter hole) They'll need to be touched up after your done, but it should be to bad. Be aware that for some of the figs, you'll just cut away the old lance and glue the brass one on.
If you want , more detail, try this link:
http://www.privateerpressforums.com/index....howtopic=190065 (http://www.privateerpressforums.com/index.php?showtopic=190065)
Balewin
01-03-2010, 05:21 PM
i see, thanks for the info. So where could I find the kind of brass tubes that would be used for this kind of job?
Blarg D Impaler
01-03-2010, 05:38 PM
i see, thanks for the info. So where could I find the kind of brass tubes that would be used for this kind of job?
You'll need to go to a hobby shop that does more models, trains, RC, etc. Generally in the same section as Testors paint. I've gotten mine from Hobby Lobby.
While you can use brass tubes, they will not be as strong as brass rod. I was originally going to use brass tube myself, but after I saw how easily it bent (nothing like pewter originals, but still) I went for rod.
No matter how careful or how how much foam you carefully wrap them in, the damn pikes ALWAYS bend and break. Curse you privateer press! :P
Ravnak
01-03-2010, 11:42 PM
While you can use brass tubes, they will not be as strong as brass rod. I was originally going to use brass tube myself, but after I saw how easily it bent (nothing like pewter originals, but still) I went for rod.
I'd be dying to know what you do to your men...
Brass tubing bends about as easily as a model's arm would bend... It needs a lot of force in terms of what a model normally endures.
The Gale Force Nine set of pinning rods and drill bits works very well. The largest size rod in the pack is pretty much the perfect diameter, and you get the right size drill bit for making holes for it. Just put it in a pin-vise and go.
The only problem I've had is that drilling holes into the blasting cap (tip) and the rear end of the pike was quite difficult.
I've also yet to verify whether the crazy glue I used to attach the ends will hold, as I only did my project 2 days ago.
vytzka
01-04-2010, 12:14 AM
I'm kind of trying to ignore the whole issue for now but I suspect I'll have to grit my teeth and do the replacement anyway when I actually start using my IFP. Just that I don't have any real drill just the GW pinvise... I guess I'll have to try to get bigger drill bits for it.
Karazax
01-04-2010, 06:55 AM
If you don't have a hobby lobby or equivalent near by, you can order the P3 brass rod pinning expansions from: http://www.thewarstore.com/hobbytools.html
They have a sale on thru this afternoon (1/4/10) for 5% off the listed prices (see their main page for details) so I plan on ordering my MK2 rule book from them today.
vytzka
01-04-2010, 07:23 AM
So first they release pikemen with bendy pikes of doom and then sell brass rod expansion kits. Genius :D
Thanks for the links, nevertheless.
Karazax
01-04-2010, 07:36 AM
Well to be fair I think the rods were sold more for pinning joints than specifically for replacing pikes or other parts whole sale, but yes that is kind of funny now that you mention it :D
Ravnak
01-04-2010, 08:41 AM
Oh, to add something I forgot to mention earlier:
Solid rods will be a pain too, because the sculpted parts will need to be glued flat to the ends, and can be knocked off. Using hollow rod (aka tube) lets you pin them on. Hence why I chose to use it.
Mine are sporting 1.1mm steel wire, 140mm in length, with the tip and cap pinned onto that.
(Exactly the same stuff I use on my ECW pikemen, except that they have the end hammered flat and ground to a point to make the point of the pike.
The missus' Macedonians have 200mm long pikes made the same way, all carried upright, and they are bleedin' lethal.
I know of someone who had to have several ranks of Macedonian 28mm scale phalangites surgically removed from the bone in his forearm when he reachd to quickly for his dice).
They are pikes afterall, and pikes are between 14' and 20' depending upon source, and aren't as thick as tree trunks (Macedonian pikes were 20', split in the middle and assembled before battle, later, notably during the English Cival War and Thirty Years Wars, pikes were issued at 16', but were often shortened by veterans to as little as 12', most commonly was 14' [raw troops could be identified by their long pikes as much as by poor drill] to make them more manageable. At no point were they any thicker than a broom handle. After the ECW and 30YW pikes fell out of use entirely as firearms took over and changed battle forever.
Medevial pike was of similar length to that of the pike and shotte era, and was used extensivly by Landschneckts and Polish, who were particulary devasting in their unique rolling phalanx).
vytzka
01-04-2010, 09:44 AM
Thanks for the brief history lesson, JTY, rather informative.
I'm quite literally full of crap like that.
thomwill
01-04-2010, 04:43 PM
Oh, to add something I forgot to mention earlier:
Solid rods will be a pain too, because the sculpted parts will need to be glued flat to the ends, and can be knocked off. Using hollow rod (aka tube) lets you pin them on. Hence why I chose to use it.
not necessarily. i was able to drill into the ends of mine without any trouble and was able to use a solid rod. i just used a 3/64 dia. rod instead of 1/16 and it worked/looks just fine.
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