PDA

View Full Version : Stripping Paint and Ungluing models



killswitch
06-23-2011, 03:09 PM
How long do people generally leave a model in Simple Green to strip paint off? Also, does it matter if the model has been sealed?

How long do you put it into acetone to remove the glue?

I've got a few models I want to strip, reassemble/convert (gonna make my Leviathan a Harrower), and repaint. I've stripped one model so far, but it didn't turn out great.

Nuriochi_sol
06-23-2011, 03:24 PM
I have a hard time with paint/glue removal too, so I'd be interested to hear more. For me, I've used Simple Green and didn't like the results. I imagine acetone will take care of both of your problems, but will melt your bases. Or any other plastic.

For me, I've been manually disassembling models with picks/files/etc and using a Dremel bit to remove the old glue - be sure to wear a breathing mask and eye protection. That's my approach anyway - if it's put together lousy, it'll come apart easy, then all that's left is clean up.

Valander
06-23-2011, 03:29 PM
Simple Green: 12-24 hours, typically. It will usually break down glue, but if it was really thick, it might not. I usually use Super Clean, as it acts a little bit faster and more thoroughly, but even then it may not break down heavy glue and putty usage (and definitely won't break epoxy glue).

If it's an all-metal model, you could go straight acetone, but be careful here as it's definitely not safe for plastics.

killswitch
06-23-2011, 03:39 PM
So, could I use the acetone to strip the paint as well, rather than simple green, then acetone?

Nuriochi_sol
06-23-2011, 04:02 PM
Oh yeah, that's what acetone is for!

diehard
06-23-2011, 05:03 PM
I've also tended to notice that the longer the paint has been on the longer it needs to soak. But in most cases overnight then a toothbrush does the trick. However I have every now and then come up against certain primers that it will just not remove.

An00bisRa
06-23-2011, 05:07 PM
Use Superclean it works really good. Here is a link to the video I made using SuperClean http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPZeoLpbGPA

Mod_Plarzoid
06-23-2011, 07:38 PM
I typically soak stuff 20+ hours, or until I can get to it. I put stuff in before bed and get to it after work the next day.

Overnight in Super Clean, then a good scrub with a toothbrush.
Overnight in Acetone, air dry on paper towels in an old cookie sheet.

Optional overnight in Super Clean again if they just didn't clean up that well.

Nion
06-24-2011, 05:49 AM
So, could I use the acetone to strip the paint as well, rather than simple green, then acetone?
The main advantage of Simple Green is that it's pretty much the only thing that will strip paint, and is non-toxic. You will get better results from harsher chemicals like acetone, just make sure to take proper precautions. Acetone in particular will destroy several (not all) types of plastics. I know it will destroy standard figure bases, but does not affect polyethylene. I've never tested anything else.

killswitch
06-24-2011, 07:33 AM
Sweet, thanks for all the input. I currently have a few models sitting in a jar of acetone, being stripped away - it was pretty crazy - after like 30 seconds the two plastic bases I had in there were already goey (would NOT want to drink this stuff!) - I don't mind those 2 bases being gone, I didn't like them and the models were glued to them and small bases anyways. This morning I looked at them, and the acetone was all black (due to black primer and black plastic bases Im sure) but the pieces were coming apart as expected! After work I'll take them out and let them dry.

Can I reuse the acetone?

LordWyrmsBane
06-24-2011, 07:39 AM
If you are looking for something that is as safe to use as Simple Green, but is much faster, I use Citri-Strip.

http://www.amazon.com/Citri-Strip-QCG73801T-Varnish-Stripping-1-Quart/dp/B000QFCP1G

It is a thick gel, so you can dip models, or paint it on. It is safe to use with paint-brushes, and will take of most acrylic paints, including primer, in less than 2 hours. It makes the paint fairly rubbery, so after scrubbing, you can pick off excess paint with a dental tool. You can rinse models directly in your sink, since the Citri-Strip is biodegradable. It also has no harsh smell (it smells like orange rind), and can be used indoors without issue.

Be aware that it does corrode plastics though, so if you are stripping plastics, you should stick to Simple Green.

Nion
06-24-2011, 10:12 AM
Yes, you can re-use acetone. It will gradually get weaker, but it shouldn't be directly related to the appearance. Just replace a batch when it stops performing the way you want it to.

Hashmal
06-24-2011, 10:30 AM
I have a mason jar full of Simple Green that's been dubbed "My Science Lab." I usually leave miniatures in there for about 48-72 hours, much longer than needed, I know.

I did, however, forget about some Daughters I had in there... and left them in it for about 2 months.

The results... spectacular, actually. Paint stripped right off, no damage to the models whatsoever.

Simple Green isn't great for glue, though. It weakens the bonds between metal/plastic, sure, but not much. It won't scratch epoxy. Usually I just break the bonds after a good soak myself and then take a knife to the recesses, chipping the glue out.

Pro tip: friend's suggestion I tried. Go out to your local pharmacy (Walgreens, Duane Reade here in the city, Rite Aid, CVS, whatever) and pick up a cheap $10 electric toothbrush. Instead of using a regular toothbrush to clean it, use one of these. It goes lightning fast, can reach crevices you'd otherwise miss, and you have unparalleled control over your brush, as your arm is only focused on one manual movement as opposed to two or more. Do this over a deeper basin sink, though: the results can be kind of messy. :)