The Kara conversion was very, very simple to do (you may disagree with the assessment depending on your comfort with modelling... as an (IMHO) advanced modeller, I found this a VERY easy conversion. Take from that what you will). I picked the model up on my way home from work and was done the majority of the work before dinner. Here's what I did:
1. Cut Kara into five pieces, as follows:

The cut between 1 and 2 is above the elbow. Between 3 and 5 was tricky and required some creative clipper positioning to avoid ruining detail-- if you're not comfortable with precision clipping, use a saw. You're going to discard a few shreds of metal from between 3 and 4. The fingers on 4 are also an entirely lost cause-- clip them off and leave only a handless forearm. Clean up the 4/5 joint on 5 as much as you can with a knife and file.
2. Get the Forces of Cygnar book and check out Kara's art pose-- that's exactly what you're going for, and the hand pose in 1 is PERFECT for it. That hand pose is the only reason this is a quick conversion and not a hugely difficult scratch-sculpting project.
3. Using the art as your guide, pin 2 and 3 to 5. 2 goes level to the shoulder, about 45-60 degrees forward as seen from overhead. 3 gets elevated a bit, then rotated backward about the same amount (kinda hard to describe... the art and my model pic should give you an idea, and I can take more ref shots if you're confused).
4. I glued 2 and 4 to the shoulder/upper arm pieces with no pins, and it wasn't an issue. They fit nicely and have held strong. If you're going to pin the joints, remember to leave room between 3 and 4 to sculpt an upper arm (though not much of one-- most of the upper arm is eaten up by the shoulder pad. The arm's only visible from underneath in the pose I used). You may need to play with the position of the pinned pieces to make everything line up (the art shows you where you want the left hand to "appear" under the gun)
5. Clean up with putty. The 1/2 and 2/5 joints will need some gap-filling (nothing complicated, just make sure the plate edges look good). 5/3/4, AKA the left upper arm, will need a putty snake sculpted into an upper arm from below. I sculpted plates to match the right side, but you can just leave it clean and smooth if you're not confident with putty work, as this isn't a very visible spot.
6. Sculpt the underslung left hand. I've previously made
a visual hand-sculpting tutorial that you can reference here... don't feel intimidated, as a hand clutching an object is one of the easiest things to sculpt.
Done and done. Steps 1 through 4 took less than an hour, and 5 and 6 took maybe another half hour. All in all, I could probably assembly line this conversion in under an hour now that I know what to do.
