Best Primer to use when painting a White based army

[Mastervalrik]

What do you all use when the model will be primaryly white?

Also what Primer do you all use, and does it make a real diffrence??

[PG_Ghool]

1. What do you all use when the model will be primaryly white?

2. Also what Primer do you all use, and does it make a real diffrence??

1. Black Primer. If you want, go with white. I find little difference what colour the undercoat is no matter what colour I paint. The reason I prime Warmachine models black is simply because of the amount of metals on the models, and painting metallics over white adds an extra step; you have to paint black over all your metals beforehand.

2. Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer. A good quality primer will make all the difference in making the paint job more durable and resistant to chipping. GW, Armory, and Army Painter primers are of low durability, chip, flake, and rub off very easily. If your primer does that, then expect the same from the paint you put on top of it.

A high quality primer is one of the most important things to invest in. It comes first before anything, and it needs to be durable, or your models won't last very long being handled, no matter what varnish, clear coat, or protective sealant you put over top of your paint job.

[pattison]

Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer. A good quality primer will make all the difference in making the paint job more durable and resistant to chipping.

+1 to this!

[Broken_shards]

My Personal preference for painting white is to work from grey , I usually use the army painter spray range, I used to use gw's primers they are good quality but they are a little expensive now, a lot of people swear by gesso but it isn't an undercoat i have used myself so i cant comment on it, end of the day its worth experimenting a bit and finding your own prefences

[Karnstein]

I would go for a grey primer...

Personally I solely use the Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer, applied with an airbrush. In most cases I start with a layer of grey primer and then finish it with a zenital highlight of white primer. I also own a bottle of black and german red-brown, but I use both of them very sparely.

[PG_lord tyrant watt]

I like automotive primer. I paint cars for a living and Duplicor Sandable primer is good stuff. No complaints here.

[Lanz]

Black or grey. I would say it depends on what else will be there other than white. Typically I find it's easier to shade up from grey than to try and shade down from white, and since you can't get any brighter than white, you typically need to go down a shade in order to highlight.

Generally if there are other colors, I'd go with black, then base the white parts in grey, but I find that starting from grey is good too, since it takes fewer layers to go up to a bright color, or down to a dark color, and works well if you have a broad palette of tones and shades in your mini.

[HeadHunter]

Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer. A good quality primer will make all the difference in making the paint job more durable and resistant to chipping.

I picked some of this up after all the good things you've said about it. Any special advice on using it? Does it still clean up with water, and how long should I let it dry before painting over it?

[PG_Ghool]

My Personal preference for painting white is to work from grey , I usually use the army painter spray range, I used to use gw's primers they are good quality but they are a little expensive now, a lot of people swear by gesso but it isn't an undercoat i have used myself so i cant comment on it, end of the day its worth experimenting a bit and finding your own prefences

I'd argue that Army Painter really isn't a primer either, and on par quality-wise with GW. I find it flakes and rubs off if you look at it wrong. To me, it looks, applies, and feels like a spray paint, and not a primer at all. Considering the price, it's a bit of a disappointment.
I will say that it works well on plastic models, but on metal? Forget it.

I picked some of this up after all the good things you've said about it. Any special advice on using it? Does it still clean up with water, and how long should I let it dry before painting over it?

Don't thin it. Just put it on straight from the bottle. It'll take two coats to get complete coverage.
It always cleans up with soap and water, but use an old brush when priming, as the additives in it destroy the brush.

Always let primer cure 24 hours before painting on it.

Painting White.
Painting White Video.

Both show the method over black primer. Working up from gray while painting white takes way too much time, and a million layers. Start from your highlight and shade it. It'll take less time, and look better.

All over top of black primer....

[Tyr852]

I assume since you are recommending the Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer you've switched to that as you recommended the Reaper Master Series in the article , or just a matter of personal preference? I only ask as I've been thinking of switching over to a paint on primer as our climate is wet and cold here and one brand is far easier to get then the other.

[PG_Ghool]

I assume since you are recommending the Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer you've switched to that as you recommended the Reaper Master Series in the article , or just a matter of personal preference? I only ask as I've been thinking of switching over to a paint on primer as our climate is wet and cold here and one brand is far easier to get then the other.

Both are good. I've switched to the Vallejo because it's available locally, where the RMS is not.
The RMS has a bit more tooth, but the Vallejo is more durable to wear, and chipping.

I still have some RMS left, but I prefer the Vallejo due it being more durable. However, I like the tooth on the RMS more.

[Jake the Dog]

I'd argue that Army Painter really isn't a primer either, and on par quality-wise with GW. I find it flakes and rubs off if you look at it wrong. To me, it looks, applies, and feels like a spray paint, and not a primer at all. Considering the price, it's a bit of a disappointment.
I will say that it works well on plastic models, but on metal? Forget it.



Don't thin it. Just put it on straight from the bottle. It'll take two coats to get complete coverage.
It always cleans up with soap and water, but use an old brush when priming, as the additives in it destroy the brush.

Always let primer cure 24 hours before painting on it.

Painting White.
Painting White Video.

Both show the method over black primer. Working up from gray while painting white takes way too much time, and a million layers. Start from your highlight and shade it. It'll take less time, and look better.

All over top of black primer....

How much drying time between the first and second coat of Brush on primer?
Have you had any experience with Reaper Brush on Primer? EDIT - I saw this was answered above in a follow up post so I'll ask a tangent question: Same two coats for Reaper Brush on Primer?

[PG_Ghool]

How much drying time between the first and second coat of Brush on primer?
Have you had any experience with Reaper Brush on Primer? EDIT - I saw this was answered above in a follow up post so I'll ask a tangent question: Same two coats for Reaper Brush on Primer?

RMS usually takes more coats, as you have to thin it. I generally just wait about 15-20 minutes between coats.

[Tyr852]

Also thank you Ghool for taking the time to answer the questions , it's appreciated by us all I'm sure.

[HeadHunter]

Also thank you Ghool for taking the time to answer the questions , it's appreciated by us all I'm sure.

Indeed, I am grateful for the advice.

[Broken_shards]

guess its one of those your mileage may vary moments, i've not had any problems with it, it can be a bit gloss when it goes on (particulary the black and reds) but each to their own. I've not tried brand you mentioned so i'll have a look at some point

[Mastervalrik]

I'd argue that Army Painter really isn't a primer either, and on par quality-wise with GW. I find it flakes and rubs off if you look at it wrong. To me, it looks, applies, and feels like a spray paint, and not a primer at all. Considering the price, it's a bit of a disappointment.
I will say that it works well on plastic models, but on metal? Forget it.



Don't thin it. Just put it on straight from the bottle. It'll take two coats to get complete coverage.
It always cleans up with soap and water, but use an old brush when priming, as the additives in it destroy the brush.

Always let primer cure 24 hours before painting on it.

Painting White.
Painting White Video.

Both show the method over black primer. Working up from gray while painting white takes way too much time, and a million layers. Start from your highlight and shade it. It'll take less time, and look better.

All over top of black primer....

WOW, Some of the best work I have seen on the internet, hands down.....

[KamenRiderNecro]

I've discovered I like to build up over a gray undercoat for whites, myself. When I painted my Doom Reavers, I primed them gray with Board To Pieces primer (which I found a wonderful product), and the paint went on exceedingly well over it, I found. Theirs is a very light gray, too, which I found to be perfect for the color of their skin to go over (P3 Frostbite base coat). Also, good old P3 white primer still works like a charm for me as well.

[Mastervalrik]

1. Black Primer. If you want, go with white. I find little difference what colour the undercoat is no matter what colour I paint. The reason I prime Warmachine models black is simply because of the amount of metals on the models, and painting metallics over white adds an extra step; you have to paint black over all your metals beforehand.

2. Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer. A good quality primer will make all the difference in making the paint job more durable and resistant to chipping. GW, Armory, and Army Painter primers are of low durability, chip, flake, and rub off very easily. If your primer does that, then expect the same from the paint you put on top of it.

A high quality primer is one of the most important things to invest in. It comes first before anything, and it needs to be durable, or your models won't last very long being handled, no matter what varnish, clear coat, or protective sealant you put over top of your paint job.

Where can u get this in the States??

[HeadHunter]

I picked it up at my local game store - anywhere that sells the Vallejo paint line should carry it, or at least can order it. Seems to be pretty good stuff - most brush on primers have been disappointing.

[polypusher]

Vallejo Acrylic-Polyurethane Primer.

I have not been able to find this. Is it labeled that way specifically? Right now I'm using a Vallejo grey airbrush primer. It rubs right off of metal, but it LOVES resin. Amazon and Warstore searches for those keywords are coming up dry.

[PPS_Meg]

If the majority of my army will be white (which my Cynar one will be) then I start with white primer.

As Ghool stated, in the end it won't make too much difference but if you start with black you will have to use more coats of white to get a solid basecoat to start with.

Also, if you are looking for a recipe on painting white, the one in the Retribution book is really handy. It's a good cool white which goes well with just about any color scheme you can think of and it's pretty easy.

[UmbrellaCorp487]

Shows them using an air brush, can you just paint the vallejo on?

[Arractur]

ABRO spray from car shop. Best primer ever. Matt white or matt black(check the caps). After you try it you realize that all this Vallejo, GW, Armypainter and the rest of "specialized professional" primer stuff is simply NOT NEEDED.

[PG_Ghool]

Shows them using an air brush, can you just paint the vallejo on?

Yes you can. The Vallejo primer can be sprayed through an airbrush, or just brushed on with a paint brush.

As far as finding it in the US, any store or shop that carried Vallejo should be able to get it. It's labelled like so:

Acrylic-Polyurethane

Black
Primer

[HeadHunter]

I have not been able to find this. Is it labeled that way specifically? Amazon and Warstore searches for those keywords are coming up dry.

You're looking for "Surface Primer" as it's called on the label:
http://www.thewarstore.com/vallejosurfaceprimers.html

The white and black just say "white primer" or "black primer" instead, but if it's got "acrylic-polyurethane" at the top of the label, it's the same stuff. Hope that helps.

[Blackraine]

I like automotive primer. I paint cars for a living and Duplicor Sandable primer is good stuff. No complaints here.

Same here, though I use Rustoleum. By the way, DO NOT, under any circumstances, use Krylon anything. It balls up as it goes on the model, then hardens to the consistency of a fresh coat of concrete... which is awesome when you just coated your $80 battle engine in the stuff. It's great if your painting something that you intend to sand later, but sand paper and small models (or even large resin models) don't necessarily mix. The Rustoleum Flat Grey Automotive Primer that I use goes on in very fine layers and doesn't rub off very readily... most of my force has been primed and unpainted for years and I still can't see any metal showing.

[KamenRiderNecro]

Same here, though I use Rustoleum. By the way, DO NOT, under any circumstances, use Krylon anything. It balls up as it goes on the model, then hardens to the consistency of a fresh coat of concrete... which is awesome when you just coated your $80 battle engine in the stuff. It's great if your painting something that you intend to sand later, but sand paper and small models (or even large resin models) don't necessarily mix. The Rustoleum Flat Grey Automotive Primer that I use goes on in very fine layers and doesn't rub off very readily... most of my force has been primed and unpainted for years and I still can't see any metal showing.

Um, actually, my favorite black primer at this time is Krylon's Camouflage Flat Black, and you want to talk about going on smoothly? It's fabulous stuff; the balling up is due to humidity, I've discovered, and since it is drier out here in Dallas than it was in Houston, I've yet to have any trouble to that effect. Just my 0.02 on that matter.

[KamenRiderNecro]

Same here, though I use Rustoleum. By the way, DO NOT, under any circumstances, use Krylon anything. It balls up as it goes on the model, then hardens to the consistency of a fresh coat of concrete... which is awesome when you just coated your $80 battle engine in the stuff. It's great if your painting something that you intend to sand later, but sand paper and small models (or even large resin models) don't necessarily mix. The Rustoleum Flat Grey Automotive Primer that I use goes on in very fine layers and doesn't rub off very readily... most of my force has been primed and unpainted for years and I still can't see any metal showing.

Um, actually, my favorite black primer at this time is Krylon's Camouflage Flat Black, and you want to talk about going on smoothly? It's fabulous stuff; the balling up is due to humidity, I've discovered, and since it is drier out here in Dallas than it was in Houston, I've yet to have any trouble to that effect. Just my 0.02 on that matter. It's funny you mention the Rustoleum primer, since I had more trouble with that drying in a sandy texture than the Krylon, go figure!

[PG_Electric Seal]

Valspar Grey is all I use, and it's about 3 dollars. The other methods in this thread will indeed yield a great result, but sometimes you just want to be ready to go in 15 minutes. I really would experiment, as it's ultimately up to your style of painting. If you find the cheap stuff about as good as the boutique primers, use it. The only thing I'll specifically recommend against is army painter. You just don't get great results for the money you spend on that stuff.

If you can get the valspar brand locally, I'd definitely give it a shot.

[KamenRiderNecro]

Valspar Grey is all I use, and it's about 3 dollars. The other methods in this thread will indeed yield a great result, but sometimes you just want to be ready to go in 15 minutes. I really would experiment, as it's ultimately up to your style of painting. If you find the cheap stuff about as good as the boutique primers, use it. The only thing I'll specifically recommend against is army painter. You just don't get great results for the money you spend on that stuff.

If you can get the valspar brand locally, I'd definitely give it a shot.

I still have a couple cans of the Valspar flat black I started out using, and it did a great job for me in the past. I may bust it out again when my Krylon Camouflage Flat Black runs out.

[PG_Tadgo]

I just picked up some Vallejo black. Gonna try to brush some on first and see how I like it. My plan is to spray it with my airbrush when I go to prime my Stormwall.

[i8dpeach]

This may sound crazy but after years and years of searching for a good primer (and I've tried them all) I use Krylon. When doing white I prime the model with two very thin coats of gray. I let it dry for a while. Then I grab the white and spray from a prospective light source (Zenithal Lighting). I dust the model on the tops leaving the gray for the undersides and places you don't see. I find anything including metallics covers just fine and on warjacks most of the metal areas won't get touched by the white dusting. My whites stay darker where I want them and bright on top giving a good light source effect. I used Ghool's method for sure on my whites with a slightly different color setup. He really helped me get white finally after 20 years of painting and the two brush technique is great.

[PG_MikeC87]

Um, actually, my favorite black primer at this time is Krylon's Camouflage Flat Black, and you want to talk about going on smoothly? It's fabulous stuff; the balling up is due to humidity, I've discovered, and since it is drier out here in Dallas than it was in Houston, I've yet to have any trouble to that effect. Just my 0.02 on that matter.

I use Krylon Gray cause the guy at the local shop said that black and white seem to hide detail more than gray does. I like it, and I don't get any weird texture with it like the one guy was saying.