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Thread: Rusted Cryx?

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    Destroyer of Worlds Obeisance's Avatar
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    Default Rusted Cryx?

    Just wondering, are there any galleries/tutorials for rusty/scrap Cryx?

    Once my Circle are done, I'm gonna repaint/rebase my Cryx and wanna do something different.

    Links would be greatly appreciated.

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    Last edited by Scottl1; 07-16-2012 at 11:40 AM.
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    Annihilator Karnstein's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obeisance View Post
    Just wondering, are there any galleries/tutorials for rusty/scrap Cryx?

    Once my Circle are done, I'm gonna repaint/rebase my Cryx and wanna do something different.

    Links would be greatly appreciated.
    Very rusty: http://mageknightkevin.blogspot.de/2...-and-dust.html

    stumbled over that game some time ago and if I hadn't put my cryx project on the shelf, I would go for something similar.
    Last edited by Karnstein; 07-16-2012 at 11:41 AM.

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    Try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfgD58orqb8

    It is such a cool new product.
    Last edited by ironchicken; 07-16-2012 at 12:05 PM.

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    http://privateerpressforums.com/show...ux-(Pic-Heavy)

    If you want rusty Cryx.... that is the one. He has a How To in there, but it is more or less just a list of products he used in order. It is a lot of pigment work!

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    Conqueror Mage Knight Kevin's Avatar
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    Hey guys,

    I appreciate the links to my stuff...hope you enjoy. I've been continuing to add to the army, and have been taking the rust techniques over to more organic Cryx pieces as well. On my blog you can get step-by-step rust application instructions using both pigments/alcohol and acrylic/water/alcohol.



    Enjoy,
    Kevin.

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    Destroyer of Worlds kommander_redfinger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obeisance View Post
    Just wondering, are there any galleries/tutorials for rusty/scrap Cryx?

    Once my Circle are done, I'm gonna repaint/rebase my Cryx and wanna do something different.

    Links would be greatly appreciated.
    Back when I was thinking about running a Cryx Army I picked up a box set and painted them in a weathered/worn/rusted appearance;



    It was REALLY very easy.

    Step 1 - I picked up some teal colored spray paint from Tamyia. I believe it was called Coral Sea Blue, coated the whole model.
    Step 2 - I took a small piece of sponge, dipped it in VMC Black Grey and made random blotches all over the surface.
    Step 3 - I blocked in all remaining colors, including the metal trim.
    Step 4 - Sealed the model in Testors Dull Coat.
    Step 5 - Picked up some rust colored oil paint, added the rust and streaking, and added some patina on the copper areas.
    Step 6 - Based and sealed the model.

    All in all the box set took me about 20-30 min per model, it was very easy and very fast.

    Ashton

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    Annihilator BENDER's Avatar
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    As soon as I get my dirty little mitts on an airbrush I am going to try the salt and hairspray weathering technique. #

    But Kevins cryx really do look good. How do the weathering powders fair under heavy use and handling? I unfortunately suffer from sweaty palms and my models see a lot of action so I don't want to be fixing it or smudging it.
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    Destroyer of Worlds DoktorVivi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BENDER View Post
    As soon as I get my dirty little mitts on an airbrush I am going to try the salt and hairspray weathering technique.
    You can do the salt and hairspray technique without an airbrush actually. I do it.. there may be one or two other forum-goers who do as well.

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    Annihilator usbprime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoktorVivi View Post
    You can do the salt and hairspray technique without an airbrush actually. I do it.. there may be one or two other forum-goers who do as well.
    I'm going to try this on my kraken, and am currently working on a test model.......how do you do it without an airbrush?

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    Destroyer of Worlds Gr33nJ3llo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BENDER View Post
    But Kevins cryx really do look good. How do the weathering powders fair under heavy use and handling? I unfortunately suffer from sweaty palms and my models see a lot of action so I don't want to be fixing it or smudging it.
    I haven't had any issues with my Vallejo dry pigments. I added a pretty solid coat of their matt vanish brush-on via the airbrush.
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    Destroyer of Worlds DoktorVivi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by usbprime View Post
    I'm going to try this on my kraken, and am currently working on a test model.......how do you do it without an airbrush?
    It's a tad more difficult, but doable. Basically you just want to realize that brushing puts more pressure on the salt than airbrushing, so if you're not careful, you can dislodge the salt while painting. An extra coat of hairspray will help (don't physically spray the hairspray onto the model... the spray isn't fine enough), and once you've got the first coat of paint on top of the salt, they should be pretty stable. Also, brushing the paint on may end up with slightly thicker / more layers of paint than airbrushing, so it might take a tad longer to chip through (remember to wet the surface when you do that!).

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    Destroyer of Worlds kommander_redfinger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoktorVivi View Post
    It's a tad more difficult, but doable. Basically you just want to realize that brushing puts more pressure on the salt than airbrushing, so if you're not careful, you can dislodge the salt while painting. An extra coat of hairspray will help (don't physically spray the hairspray onto the model... the spray isn't fine enough), and once you've got the first coat of paint on top of the salt, they should be pretty stable. Also, brushing the paint on may end up with slightly thicker / more layers of paint than airbrushing, so it might take a tad longer to chip through (remember to wet the surface when you do that!).
    There is a better way to do it with out the hairspray and salt. Check out a company called AK Interactive, they sell a paint chipping solution called "Worn Effects" and another called "Heavy Chipping" Both are designed to be used with airbrush or paintbrush, and the effects speak for themselves. I have used both fluids on my Fort Falk Stormwall.

    Ashton

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    Try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfgD58orqb8

    It is such a cool new product.
    That is weathering powder mixed with water, or at least the effect is identical to weathering powder mixed with water. I'd recommend just buying the dry pigments and mixing them yourself. That way you can apply em dry if you want, and can get way more pigment for your $.

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    Annihilator chris_cryx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kommander_redfinger View Post
    There is a better way to do it with out the hairspray and salt. Check out a company called AK Interactive, they sell a paint chipping solution called "Worn Effects" and another called "Heavy Chipping" Both are designed to be used with airbrush or paintbrush, and the effects speak for themselves. I have used both fluids on my Fort Falk Stormwall.Ashton
    Do you know how effective this is by applying with paintbrush?
    Originally Posted by Yertle4I'm convinced Pig players suffer from Stockholm syndrome.

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    Destroyer of Worlds kommander_redfinger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris_cryx View Post
    Do you know how effective this is by applying with paintbrush?
    It is very effective. Take a look at my Stormwall WIP;



    These rusting effects were achieved by using both types of fluids, in different spots, and by applying some of them with an air brush and some with a paint brush. Once the fluid is dry you paint over it with your color of choice, and then using a tooth brush or old paint brush wet the area down that you want to look rusted and start scrubbing off the top layer of paint.

    A word of caution though, I would not recommend using this technique or the hairspray technique on small mini's or jacks. The reason why is that the effect does not scale down nicely. When doing these types of effects, the smaller you go less is more, and sometimes getting the chipping in the right place can be frustrating. That is why I recommended the sponge method earlier. It is a lot easier and more forgiving. Of course you may get better results than me at a smaller scale.

    Ashton

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    Annihilator chris_cryx's Avatar
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    I am going to be applying these techniques to my Kraken, when it finally arrives!

    I am using the same colour scheme as my Desecrator below :-

    Originally Posted by Yertle4I'm convinced Pig players suffer from Stockholm syndrome.

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    Annihilator SchnauzerFace's Avatar
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    Salt weathering is great, but hairspray on its own works wonders, too.

    1.) Apply rusty basecoat
    2.) Apply hairspray
    3.) Apply basecoat/shade/highlights
    4.) Use a toothpick dipped in rubbing alcohol to scrape away paint/hairspray.

    I used that technique on my Stormwall, but i think kommander has the definitive Stormwall so I won't embarrass myself by posting it here

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    Conqueror jbeason70's Avatar
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    Let's see if I can resurrect this thread...
    Quote Originally Posted by kommander_redfinger View Post
    Back when I was thinking about running a Cryx Army I picked up a box set and painted them in a weathered/worn/rusted appearance;



    It was REALLY very easy.

    Step 1 - I picked up some teal colored spray paint from Tamyia. I believe it was called Coral Sea Blue, coated the whole model.
    Step 2 - I took a small piece of sponge, dipped it in VMC Black Grey and made random blotches all over the surface.
    Step 3 - I blocked in all remaining colors, including the metal trim.
    Step 4 - Sealed the model in Testors Dull Coat.
    Step 5 - Picked up some rust colored oil paint, added the rust and streaking, and added some patina on the copper areas.
    Step 6 - Based and sealed the model.

    All in all the box set took me about 20-30 min per model, it was very easy and very fast.

    Ashton
    I'm really loving the look you got going here. I just had a couple of questions about it.
    1. Did you prime the model or just go straight to the spray paint? My guess is straight to the spray paint.
    2. There appears to be some other washes going on on this model (on the bones, and maybe on the metals.) Is that the case or did you wash the entire model in the rust oil paint?
    Thanks for any answers here.

  20. #20
    Destroyer of Worlds kommander_redfinger's Avatar
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    1. Straight paint
    2. The rust wash is just on the blue areas. The bone areas were washed with Devlin Mud, and the copper was washed with a patina wash, I believe it was VMC Bright Green watered down.

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    Conqueror jbeason70's Avatar
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    Thank you kind sir.

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    You've already got loads of replies here, so this will probably be superfluous to requirements but my recipie is as follows:
    1. Prime black
    2. A even coat of P3 Bootstrap Leather
    3. Sponge on a mid range bright orange. I don't have many P3 Colours, so I don't know what they have but I've been using Citadel Troll Slayer Orange and it works great. I use a piece of foam from a KR multicase but a bathroom or kitchen sponge will probably be just as good.
    I dab it on lightly, leaving some of the brown underneath showing through. This stage is quite messy, so it may be worth doing it before other work.
    4. Using the same sponge and a metallic silver of your choice (Citadel Boltgun Metal was the one I used), dab it on, keeping away from the recesses. This should be done carefully, so as to avoid over doing it, but it really comes together here and takes the edge off that bright orange.

    It's a quick way of doing rust but it looks pretty good in my opinion.

    JG

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