Love your Cygnar madness Agememnon.
Any chance we could have a more detailed view of the LED wiring that you set up for the StormWall's ?
Also with the shoulder joints, do you find using your method of pinning them into place that you get much vertical rotation on the arms
e.g if your looking at the model front on and you lift the arm straight up as if reaching for the sky, will it stay in place or just fall back down ?
As far as I can tell the join will only click into place if you move the arm outward to the left or tight not straight up and down.
Last edited by Mordhel; 04-22-2013 at 07:06 AM.
Well they will slide some... but that will get answered later in the post.
As for the wiring... sorry I was a por WIP photographer and didn't get any shots of that. I need to take some lessons from Captian Spud on that front. It was pretty straightforward though....if you know much about wiring at all.
I pulled up a random online LED wiring calculator and gave it my numbers.... and it goes a little something like this-
Wish I could remember where I got the power switches from. They were really small and that was my primary concern. They were a major pain to wire and solder up.. that was not something I didn't expect.
Once all the LED's and wires were soldered together came the part that will drive anyone who knows what to and not to do mad.
I insulated all the bare wires with hot glue.
Yes yes I know hot glue will conduct electricity.. well I have not had a problem yet and it was the best thing I could think of at the time.
It really served several purposes for me. It insulated the wires and gave them more regidity for pushing them into place. It also helped since I used hot glue to hold them in place. Lastly it served as durable protection from the metal pin wire from the arms. Oddly enough it also helps keep the arms from rotating needlessly when in that arms up stance (most of the time).
Does that help any?
Thanks so much for your reply it helped a lot.
Any chance you could take a closer picture of the inside wirring of the SW inclduing the switch placement etc ?
Just to clarify the pins is jammed in next to hot glue that stops it from rotating around loosely ?
Did you by chance try cutting of the pin that goes into the body at the base of the joint and drilling in a magnet and using that as the shoulder join for the up and down axes vertically and then you can use the ball joint articulation to give you the up and down movement on when you lift the arm up outward ?
Thanks for the diagram of the LEDS, did you find there was a fair bit of room to move inside the torso for working with the LED's or is rather fiddly getting them all in place once you have it all wired up ?
How many actual LED's are in the body of the SW, is it a total of 9 as per you diagram above ?
Also how did you cast the ball for your Storm Striders, is the ball hollow or a solid shape ?
Last edited by Mordhel; 05-03-2013 at 11:10 PM.
Okay, the HS spam I get, even in Mk 2 my buddy LOVES HS spam, but WHY in the NAME OF MENOTH AND MORROW DO YOU HAVE 6 STORM STRIDERS?!? The concept blows my mind.
Menoth | Cygnar| Mercs| Trollbloods| Minions (Points & Casters)
160 & 5|_15 & 1|_46 & 1|____67 & 1|______1
Reznik Wracks: Gorman
Well here is a pic of the insides. Housekeeping in there is a little better than it looks. LED's were put in place and Hot Glued down. Battery was tucked in with the wires carfully wound and set on top.
After doing this I see that I probably could have picked a better model to show the insides of. I think this one is probably the most unimpressive with the excess hot glue strings and the little blob on the switch. After building 9 of these (6 for me, 1 for Halfhoot, 2 to sell) I was kinda ready to be done with the project. So the insides did not get the primping and painting that the exterior did.
This one particular model gave me fits with the switch staying in place. It was also the most extreme out of the ones I did with uneven plastic of the body. You can see how much thicker the plastic is on the right when compared to the left. Cutting this one open was a major chore I pretty much ended up hammering the exacto knife into the plastic to get all the way through.
The magnet placement is also very visible in these shots. With 4 magnets holding the top in place it does not just fall off.
As for the Striders the ball is solid cast. There are WIP's back in the thread if you want to look them up.
Pydracor is very right. Have you seen the unbound formations? I love me some Strider action.... especially with Di Bray on the table.
Also with all of that hot glue and wires etc, are you able to take out the batteries and replace them ?
Thanks again for taking the time to reply to all of my questions, its much appreciated.
The razor saw was better to use than the exacto. The hot glue was all set when I put everthing in. The battery comes out very easily. As for what to do to make the conversions easier.... nothing. I probably would not change anything about how I made mine. They are all solid and easy to work with. I do plan to eventually change out the magnets in the wrist position. The hands pop off to easily currently. Other than that be careful, diligent and don't think about how it is impossible to get replacement parts.
Also in regards to the arm articulation, do you think this could work:
The idea is to cut the pin that currently goes into the torso and countersinking a magnet into the articulating joint and using the magnets for the vertically up and down movement (blue pin in diagram) and use the ball joint articulation to give you the up and down movement on when you lift the arm (pink pin in diagram).
It really makes you appreciated how amazing the human shoulder is in terms of its range of articulation.
I will use a stronger magnet in the wrists.
As for the shoulder articulation. What you propose would not work due to how the joints are made. My shoulders have no problems articulating just like that currently.
Those two Centurions look so happy together! I'm also loving the blue and white striped shirts of the rangers! Great work.