Dipping...

[aedh11]

I'm new to the concept of dipping. The last time I painted a model was 5/6 years ago, and I hadn't heard of it then.

Does it work as well on PP models as GW ones? Does it work well on the larger models, such as the 'jacks?


Thanks for all your help.

Yours,

Aedh

[Yentz]

With most Warmachine, no, I don't think it would work well. Obviously this is going to depend on your color scheme(It works best with Organics).

However, it could certainly work well with Retribution, provided you wanted their armour to have a *Bone* style color to it, as well as many Hordes models(Legion in Particular, it could work great with).

[aedh11]

Ah ok. I've set myself the task of painting my first fully painting, tabletop standard army ever, and things like dipping will help me greatly. It's good to find out from more experienced players what it would work with, as this will have an effect on my decisions regarding which army I choose.


Thanks,

Aedh

[JTY]

Dipping works very well on anything, provided you get the colours right and the application right.

Basically, you are using a coloured woodstain over flat base colours, and that acts like an ink wash on steroids: it gets into all the deep areas and gives proggressive layers of shading.

Beyond that, you can paint over the dip layer and get more hilighting on there as well (see the Khador models in my sig, I used woodstain as a stage on them before hilighting).

It takes prcatice though, and the term 'dip' is a bit of a misnomer as ideally you should be applying the woodstain with a brush for more control and less pooling.

Take a look around in this very section, if you search for 'dip' you'll find some fantastic examples.
And if you Google it you'll find some fantastic tutorials.

Note also, it isn't a new technique, people have been using woodstains for a very long time.
But it has enjoyed a bit of a resurgence and has come back into vogue a bit since Army Painter released their range of dips.

I believe that in the States Minwax is the stuff you should be looking for.

[aedh11]

thanks man! Your models are excellent, btw. It's good to know. What should I be getting in the UK? Is their a specific one that works especially well?

Yours,

Aedh

[JTY]

Huh, didn't read your location!

Ronseal, quick drying interior woodstain.
Satin finish, water based.
Walnut is a good shade, though they do quite a few. Avoid light shades though, they'll just come out a bit yellow looking.

Because it's water based you don't need turps of thinners, just water.
Blob some on a pallette, add water to taste and daub it on the model. Experiment with it to find the right sort of thickness and an effect that works for you.

Your base coats do need to be neat, solid and quite bright though.

[aedh11]

thanks for the tips! I'll be sure to post some pics up once I get the models done!

Thanks,

Aedh

[PG_Larkin Vain]

I've recently become a fan of dipping. Without it I would have not finished so man Khador models in such a short amount of time.

Here's a link to my Khador thread of dipped models.

http://www.privateerpressforums.com/...ad.php?t=16055

[asoka]

Here's my dipped Cygnar. I've really enjoyed the results i'm getting

http://www.privateerpressforums.com/...ad.php?t=11172

[saxondog]

Dipping works fine as long as you use brighter than normal colors for your base coat.
Block all the colors in carefully and "dip" away. I brush the cut wood stain on. You should have a decent looking force in no time.
A friend of mine did the equivalent of 150 pts in one week using this method.

SFK

[Gdufner]

I love using a dip to quickly paint a force. I dip all of my trolls, and think it looks really well. I use MinWax Antique Walnut. Paint it like they talked about above, bold blocked in colors, I call it coloring book painting. Once the model is totally dry, even after I clean up my brushes and all that, I dip the models and give them a good shake (I shake like 30-40 times into a large carbage can in the garage, when I was single and living in an apartment I shook them into an empty box in the kitchen.) Once they've been shaken, I let them sit for a minute or two and check for pooling and wick it off with a paper towel.

Here's couple of my dipped models if you need examples:

[CT GAMER]

Gator looks awesome!!!

[EDFDarkAngel1]

I purchased GWs overpriced dip and, I have to say, it's amazing for tabletop quality. As YW7 said, you can paint over it for pro level, but it'll look damned nice if you don't.

I'm only wondering what stain would be a good substitute for something other than $30 for a small can.

Dark Angel

[slaughterhouse]

I have been told that if you paint it on, not only do you control pooling more, but it will extend the life of your dip by like 2-3x so the $30 is actually reasonable if you think about how many mini's you are covering that way.

[EDFDarkAngel1]

It's only useful for solos and troopers, maybe most of the warcasters. Jacks is a no unless it's particularly scrawny (bonejacks, gun bunnies, etc)

Dark Angel

[JTY]

I purchased GWs overpriced dip and, I have to say, it's amazing for tabletop quality. As YW7 said, you can paint over it for pro level, but it'll look damned nice if you don't.

You mean the washes?
Technically it isn't a dip, as that is a woodstain. The GW washes are a pre-mix with matte-medium.
They are very useful, I use them myself as it's handy having the same mix consistently, when you are mixing your own paints and washes it's difficult to get the same consistency every time.

However they are expensive.
Check out Vallejo's new range of washes for a cheaper alternative. They are almost identical with the added bonus of more consistent quality control between batches.

It's only useful for solos and troopers, maybe most of the warcasters. Jacks is a no unless it's particularly scrawny (bonejacks, gun bunnies, etc)

You can indeed dip/wash jacks, there are plenty of really good examples on this very forum.

I hate to say it, but if it isn't working you need to refine your techique rather than state it doesn't work.

[EDFDarkAngel1]

It's nothing about technique, it's a small can and they don't offer any other sizes. If I could fit them in, it wouldn't be a problem.

Dark Angel

[JTY]

Right, ok...

The GW washes are paints, not woodstains.
The idea is that you paint them on, as is infact true with woodstains. ''Dipping'' is a lazy way of doing it which will only lead to problems.

Now, if you want bigger and cheaper pots of the GW wash, please do go and look up the Vallejo washes.

Beyond that, I'm sorry but I'm struggling to understand what you are talking about as it isn't very clear what you are asking, stating or wanting.
Sorry.

[Thunder_God]

EDF, are you sure you're not talking about The Army Painter's dip?

JTY, he's obviously not talking about the Citadel Washes, or you couldn't get solos inside either.

[aedh11]

Thanks for all the links guys, the models all look pretty darn sweet. Now I've just got to decided on my force (my current idea is to do a rugged Cygnar army; plenty of trenchers etc, with a mostly metal/dull brown colour scheme, with only little bits in blue). I think that colour scheme would work well with dips...


...yours,

Aedh.

-EDIT-

Apparently, much like asoka's models!

[EDFDarkAngel1]

Voila.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/produc...oductgroupId=1

I use the strong tone personally.

Dark Angel

[2LiveIs2Die]

Voila.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/produc...oductgroupId=1

I use the strong tone personally.

Dark Angel

army painter is overpriced wood stain.

[EDFDarkAngel1]

That's what I thought, but I was wondering if there is a type of wood stain I should look for, or are they all pretty much the same for dipping models?

Dark Angel

[2LiveIs2Die]

That's what I thought, but I was wondering if there is a type of wood stain I should look for, or are they all pretty much the same for dipping models?

Dark Angel

Minwax One Step Stain and Finish - Tudor Satin

[Tekanan]

Do you guys use an anti-shine varnish after the dipping process?

If so, any recommendations?

Armypainter has alot of things I really need (including the woodstains), but price and maybe shipping location is an issue. I will probably go head-hunting for my own woodstains, but I am unsure whether I am able to find anti-shine varnish from places besides hobby stores...

[whitekong]

Do you guys use an anti-shine varnish after the dipping process?

If so, any recommendations?

Armypainter has alot of things I really need (including the woodstains), but price and maybe shipping location is an issue. I will probably go head-hunting for my own woodstains, but I am unsure whether I am able to find anti-shine varnish from places besides hobby stores...

I have been using krylon crystal clear flat, it was around 3 dollars for an 11Oz can at wal-mart. Hope this helps.

[EDFDarkAngel1]

I have always used Testors Dullcote. Comes out perfect everytime :P

Dark Angel

[saxondog]

second using Testors dullcoat. Pricey but does the trick every time.

SFK