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  1. #1

    Default My first attempt at mini war-gaming

    First off, I want to say I am very excited and probably going to sound green. Though, that is what I am. I was looking into other mini wargames, that shall remain nameless, but I found that they are very expensive and not very 'New player oriented'. So I did a search for alternative games and found warmahordes. After watching a few battle reports, I was hooked. So I got my friend to go into buying an old menoth vs khador two player battle box. I have a few random questions that I haven't been able to find.

    1. I know this box I bought is mk2 and the cards that come in the box are probably out of date. To replace them I probably have only two options: 1. Buy a faction deck. 2. Buy a deck on the war room 2 app. Now, my question is: in the card errata portion of the official website there are PDFs with new cards in there, If a card does NOT exist in there does that mean the old card is still valid?

    2. Can I take part in battle-box battles with models from this mk2 box?

    3. I actually make some money for painting commissioned portraits of people's pets and have decent acrylic paints already. I understand that one of the reasons for buying faction paints is to maintain the exact hue of each color, but I am pretty good at mixing paints. Does anyone have any tips or links to resources with good information on how to successfully paint my models like this?

    4. This next question is related to game play, everything seems to be in the rule book, but I wasn't sure about this one thing: does focus regenerate or do I have steal it back from my warjacks?

    Thanks for reading and sorry for the wall of text.

    TL;DR: I am new and exicted. I have questions about mk2 model cards, painting, an focus points. Questions are in bold.

  2. #2
    Destroyer of Worlds Grey Templar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Umbrey, wracking Heretics while Vlad's not looking


    1) No. The cards you have will be the Mk2 cards, which are all out of date. The errata PDF of updated cards contains cards that are alterations to Mk3 cards, which you will not have. So you will need to purchase a Mk3 deck, get Warroom2, or wait for the PDF of Mk3 cards to be available.

    2) Possibly with some alteration. Battle-box sized games are typically 0 point games. Which means you can only spend your Warcaster's Warjack Points. You will likely need to buy some other stuff to wiggle points around to play 0 point games. but I recommend going for slightly larger games to start with. Something around 15 points so you can get a unit and some other stuff. 0 point games are only good for learning some basic rules, they are not good indicators of the actual game. You need to be playing 75ish points before you can really see how the game is played. So start at 15 and work up to 75 as you cut your teeth.

    3) First off, you are allowed to paint your models however you want. You do not have to follow the studio scheme unless you want to. As for recommendations, there is a painting subsection of this forum so you could just browse that for inspiration and ask questions.

    I am not confidant that your portrait acrylic paints will be good for miniature painting. The grains might be possibly too large to give good coverage on a miniature without obscuring detail while also giving good color. IE: in order to make the paints thin enough to not obscure the detail, you could dilute the color to a useless level. Its why I only use paints that are made for using on miniatures, like GW, Vallejo, or Testors. Smaller particles which will cover the model without obscuring the detail.

    As for making the colors and such, thats all personal preference. Mix your own colors, make your models look like you want them to.

    4) Ok, focus works like this. When a warcaster or warjack spends a point of focus, it goes away. At the beginning of each of your turns, your warcaster gains Focus points up to his maximum FOCUS stat.

    Say I have a focus 6 warcaster who has 2 warjacks.

    Beginning of my turn, if the warcaster has fewer than 6 focus points currently, he goes up to 6. If he for some reason had more than 6 focus points, he would go down to 6.

    Now, during the Control Phase, you can choose to allocate these focus points to warjacks with functional cortices in your battlegroup that are in your control area. Each warjack gets 1 focus point automatically for free just for being in your control area due to the Power Up rule. So before you do anything, you will have 2 warjacks each with 1 focus point, and a warcaster with 6 focus points. You can give each jack additional focus points if you wish, but each warjack may not have more than 3 focus at any one time(unless specifically allowed to have more).

    So you give each jack 1 focus point, which leaves your warcaster with 4 focus and your jacks each with 2(one for free, one from allocation).

    At the end of your turn, one of your warjacks has spent both of its focus, one has spent 1 of the focus, and your warcaster spend 3 of the 4 points he had after allocating.

    Beginning of your next turn, your warjacks lose all the focus points they had on them. Your warcaster however has 1 focus, which he keeps. Then during the control phase your warcaster will refill his focus points up to his FOCUS stat of 6. And you can begin the process all over again.

    I would read the rulebook several times. Specifically on the Turn structure, as well as the Focus rules.
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  3. #3


    Wow, thanks you so much for the in depth answers. One of the main reason why I chose this game is the willingness of more experienced players to help noobs. Cheers

  4. #4
    Destroyer of Worlds RandomThoughts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Munich, Germany


    Hello Halatix, welcome to the forums!

    Too add a few things to what was already said:

    1) Like Grey Templar said, you will need to get the MK3 card decks, Warroom2, or wait for the free PDFs to be released. But you should also get a MK3 rulebook, either the free PDF off the main site, or you add one of the MK3 battleboxes, they come with mini rulebooks.

    2) The best place to learn the rules is battlebox games, but you should be able to use the old battleboxes as well. Points will not add up correctly, but it's close enough.

    Personally I recommend about 3-5 battlebox games, followed by 3-6 months of 25 points, then you go up to 50 and you can stay there indefinitely if you only play casually. If you ever want to play competitively, move up to 75!

    I agree with Grey Templar on reading the rules more than once.

    If you want, also give the Intro Guide in my signature a try.


    "As I often say, variety is the spice of wargaming" (Cyel)

  5. #5


    I can add that at least for Khador you won't have to buy the fraction deck right now, just get the Warrom 2 App. The two Jacks the Man-O-Wars and Sorcha are all part of the free content that is available for the faction in Warroom 2. You can download the PDF Rules for free. All new cards will become available to print for free soon as well. Also Card changed by errata are available here: at the bottom: Link to updated cards. So no worries about spending a lot of money on rules. You might wanna get pay for the Khador/Menoth deck eventually, becuase the App has very great utiliy to get an overview of the faction. If you search for the old video you will finde a game with the miniatures you aquired, but with some rules that are outdated (still worth a view I think).
    It is possible to use Sorcha and the two Jacks in a Battle Box game, but the Jacks do no longer fill her Warjack Points. But it's close enough and being a bit beneath should not be too much of a problem. You play the BB games just to learn the rules anyways.

    For the rules, this video by privateer press gives you an incredible overview over the basic rules of the game:
    There is also one for Hordes. I would recomment watching this before you start playing or even reading the rules.

    To Acrylic Paints: I used paints like you describe for miniature paining before. It works out very well, the paints are very similar to the paints for Minature Wargames. What I would recomment very much is a spray to prime your models (black is easiest to do, but if you need bright colors you should either use white or prime black then carefully spray white to imitate a light source, seen here: You absolutely must buy the same color from the same company afterwards for correcting mistakes and so on. If you use a different black or white color that is not of the same producer it will show! Also I would recomment to use non mixed colors for your main colors and then using another one for shading (or a shade, shades are very useful for miniatures painitng and improve contrast and realism a lot!) and one for the brightest highlight. Then mix those to build up your light effects.
    Last edited by Snoozer; 01-03-2017 at 07:04 AM.

  6. #6


    Quote Originally Posted by RandomThoughts View Post
    Hello Halatix, welcome to the forums!

    If you want, also give the Intro Guide in my signature a try.

    Haha, thanks for the advice. I have actually already read your posts, very useful. I'm already re-reading things as there so much information. At this point I have like 3 friends that are interested in playing so we'll have a group that can learn together.

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