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  1. #1
    Conqueror CG's Avatar
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    Default My Dipped Trolls

    Here's a few pictures of my painted Trollblood models. I've been holding off on painting more until Hordes Mk2 was out so I would be sure that the models I planned to paint were still models I wanted to play. This also lets me transfer the thread from the old forum to the new one.

    First up: The Dires

    I dont have a name for the one with hair, but I call the other one Broken Tooth for obvious reasons. I figured he's an old Troll who lost his spines over time. He's also a little more dinged up with half-healed cuts, etc. It was an easy way to differentiate them on the table.

    The plan eventually was to field Doomshaper with Dires 'n Pygs for theme reasons. I have a Blitzer on the go and Doomshaper himself. The Pygs are up next.

    The duo:


    Broken Tooth:


    Front...



    and back:




    My Trollbloods are all painted in base colours and then dipped. I then go over the edges on the dipped model with the original colours to pop an edge.

    * Skin - Space Wolves Grey
    * Spines - Electric Blue?
    * Growths - Fortress Grey

    The dip is MinWax Polyshades Tudor Satin.

    I don't actually dip them; I paint on the dip. Painting gives them a lighter stain and you have a little more control. If there are any bubbles on the surface of the model from the brush, you can gently blow on the model to pop the bubbles.

    Up next - Pygs!
    My painted Legion, Trollbloods and Khador

  2. #2
    Conqueror CG's Avatar
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    So, the Pygs might not be ideal on the table, but they're the least likely to get eaten by the Dires, so Doomshaper rounded some up to cover his flank!

    Painted the same as the Dires. The brown bits are a variety of Citadel/GW Browns. The kilts are my clan kilt (navy blue with green and yellow lines) They're a bit dark in the pics, but I'm hoping the pattern will turn out better on models with larger kilts to paint on. I might have to switch to a lighter blue.



    Close-up:


    Leader and "Davey Crockett":


    Next up is Doomshaper and a Blitzer. Not sure when I'll get a chance to do them, but they're on my painting table.
    My painted Legion, Trollbloods and Khador

  3. #3
    Destroyer of Worlds ButcherOfKhardov's Avatar
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    Very nice,

    never tried dip before but I am starting to appreciate some of the effects you can get with it. It looks like a really nice Kriel you have forming up. Looking forward to seeing more.

    BoK


    Butcher's Butchering Block 2010 - 29/0/0 (W/L/D)
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    "Stay y"

  4. #4
    Destroyer of Worlds EpicAstinos's Avatar
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    Great tones, and a nice simple theme. I paint on the dip too, when I use it, and it looks like you've mastered the application of it.
    All hail the Ubernaught. All hail the CAKEFATHER.

  5. #5
    Annihilator Stomphoof's Avatar
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    Impressive! I dig the scheme.
    WE ARE NERD. RESISTANCE IS FUTILE

  6. #6
    Destroyer of Worlds Mnkylord's Avatar
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    I've never been a fan of dipped minis (I know, I'm a total snob), but you actually got a nice, clean effect with it here. I'm guessing because you didn't "dip" so much as used it as a "wash". And to very good effect! Well done, sir!


    Current Projects:
    Archidon Leonopteryx

  7. #7
    Destroyer of Worlds KainMalice's Avatar
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    Dipping is such a freaking fantastic technique. I absolutely love it, and I dont think I will ever go back to what I was trying to do before. I actually get compliments on my models now.

  8. #8
    Destroyer of Worlds Greywolf's Avatar
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    Nice looking work there bud.

    www.the131.com
    Gaming in Western, MA

  9. #9
    Destroyer of Worlds KamenRiderNecro's Avatar
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    OK, I'm curious; exactly what is dipping and what do you use for it? I prefer to go hand brushed myself, but am open to learning the art of dipping for time saving reasons. Anybody willing to give me the low down? Thank you!

  10. #10
    Conqueror CG's Avatar
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    Typically you get actually dip the model into the stain, like dipping a cone at Dairy Queen. You actually submerge the model in the goo. Then you shake it off as much as possible and put the model down on a flat surface to dry. In my case I used MinWax Polyshades Tudor Satin floor stain.

    I went with the brush approach because I didn't feel comfortable shaking heavy warjacks/warbeasts by their base. I was afraid they would snap off. With Troopers it's a lot less risky, but the actual dipping can be nerve wracking! Painting it on is a little more work, but not much and a lot less messy.

    Another approach to shaking the models can be to rig up a way to attach the model to a wooden dowel and spin it to get rid of the excess. The whole shaking thing seemed very messy to me as well, but I'm sure you could rig up something with a cardboard box or some newspaper to keep it contained.

    The reason you do this is to get shading very easily on the model. If you want an army built up to table-top quality very quickly, dipping can be a big help. You only need a neat (painted within the lines) basecoat on the model and then dip. I find it helps to use brighter colours on the model because the dip will darken it.

    You can get the dip at a paint/hardware store. Take an old model and give it a try.
    My painted Legion, Trollbloods and Khador

  11. #11
    Conqueror CG's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the kind words everyone. It's very motivating to get positive feedback! =)
    Last edited by CG; 09-05-2010 at 09:34 AM.
    My painted Legion, Trollbloods and Khador

  12. #12
    Annihilator xcom's Avatar
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    I've been dipping my armys for awhile. I was originally using Minwax poly shades for my dips. Recently I've been using the ARMY PAINTER QUICK SHADES and have been really enjoying them. They dry quicker, and the model isn't as "sticky" after it does dry. The bad problem with them though, cans of the stuff is $30.

    I rather have fun and lose, then play an army based purely on pie charts and statistical probabilities.

  13. #13
    Destroyer of Worlds patisarat's Avatar
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    Yep, I can second the Army Painter dip. Great product - it works really well.

    It's more expensive, but right out of the tin the texture and color is perfect for miniatures; no worrying about whether using a different varnish is gonna ruin your models. If you brush it on, a single can will do armies and armies worth of figures.

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