Incredibly frustrated.

[deadwingxx]

So, I was excited to get my Skorne warpack in the mail today...
That is, until I opened it.

I had minimal trouble assembling Morghoul and the Titan, but the cyclops have been giving me huge pains. I finished one and sprayed it, and got down to painting, to take a break.

I had been practicing my reds for awhile now, but the paint went on too thick and dark this time, and ruined the model. I'm on painter's block. Everything's coming out bad. I picked up Ashlynn d'Elyse too (I love the sculpt) and had similar issues.

I don't know what to do at this point. I'm afraid to try to paint/build another model. I don't want to ruin them...

[admanb]

Everything is strippable and re-assembleable. Unless you're chopping off chunks of a model to glue it together, you can't possibly ruin anything.

[PG_Fellio]

Someone that likes the Ashlynn sculpt? How surprising.

Anyways, if you're not feeling how you're painting at the moment, then don't paint. Wait until you're excited to do it; if you feel like you can't do something, then you can't do it.

[deadwingxx]

How should I go about stripping them?
It won't ruin any details?

[PG_Fellio]

I've stripped models with soaking them in simple green and going at them with a toothbrush.
It is incredibly frustrating though.

[KainMalice]

I am of the opinion to just buy the model again, due to the fact that stripping models is nasty work. To be fair though, I imagine your models look fine. As long as they look good on the table, it shouldn't be an issue. I would like to think only one to two people can paint as badly as...nevermind...

[admanb]

I am of the opinion to just buy the model again, due to the fact that stripping models is nasty work.

Did you have to knock down a wall to add a room for your piles of cash? :P

Simple Green, jar, 48 hours. Not that nasty.

[Turtle]

Don't waste money buying a new model. That's ridiculous. Just strip the model as others have said and rebuild it. Also, post a picture of it so people can give you better critique and advice than whether to strip it or not.

[iurbina]

Stripping models is easy. Get an empty glass jar, fill it with simple green, dump your models in, wait 24 hours, fish them out and scrub them with a toothbrush under hot running water. $5 for a bottle of safe household cleaning product is a hell of a lot better than spending $50+ buying all of your models again.

As to fixing the problems you were having in the first place, just thin your paints more and take your time building up the layers. It takes a while, but it's worth it for nice, smooth paint.

[patisarat]

Also, the Skorne Cyclops Savage models are crazy frustrating to assemble. The hands just don't match up, and it's incredibly annoying. That can't be good for your mental state!

Like everyone has said, just strip your models down by soaking in simple green or whatever. It won't hurt them at all. Repaint with well-thinned paints. Take your time when painting. As your skills develop, you'll be surprised how well you can paint.

[Mordjinn]

And before stripping and reassembling or buying new miniatures remember the simple rule of miniature painting: Even the coolest model will look awful and stupid at some point of the process. Take a deep breath, check if you can do a wash or a highlight to bring out detail and if you can do it. Normally breathes new life into a bland looking model and gives you inspiration and energy to finish up. Also trying to do perfect will just make your painting a pain. Keep painting and accept the fact that not all models come out "the best". Many times a miniature that looks mediocre when viewed close actually shines on the battlefield. Just do the old "always check the paintjob your arms lenght away" and you'll be fine.

Of course if you've filled all the detail with paint, then it's time to strip.

[KamenRiderNecro]

For what it's worth, here; I play Skorne as well, and those Cyclops Savages are indeed frustrating to assemble. I had to have a friend help me out with the arms and hands, and he was horrified at the amount of trouble it took! On the painting angle, yes, definitely save yourself some money and strip/repaint your models. I use a mix of water & Pine-Sol, 50/50 ratio, and after 24 hours or so it works just fine with the hot water/toothbrush method mentioned already. I am going to be stripping/repainting my Bloodrunner Master Tormentor as well since I was displeased with the way she turned out, as well as wanting to try a different color scheme. Bottom line; don't force it, take your time and put the time in with the brushes, but know when to put them down and walk away as well. It's a good thing to know.

[Crate123]

If it looks awful and unfinished, give it a coat of wash and it will turn out wonderful (works for me).

[AToE]

Don't listen to that BS about stripping being nasty, I did it for the first time with some simple green I bought from Home Depot or somesuch and it worked wonderfully, nothing messy about it at all, it was actually fun to watch the paint just fall off over the course of 24 hours.

[HyveMynd]

Also, the Skorne Cyclops Savage models are crazy frustrating to assemble. The hands just don't match up, and it's incredibly annoying.

+1 on that. I almost threw my Cyclops models against the wall in frustration when I got my Skorne battle box, and I consider myself a pretty decent modeler. After I calmed down a little (which took a while) I realized that it was a perfect opportunity to do some conversion work on them - I always thought their "standard" pose was rather goofy looking.

Unfortunately I live in a place where I can't find any Simple Green, so I have to use acetone. Nail polish remover in layman's terms. I fill a jar with the stuff, drop my models in to soak overnight, and then go over them with a toothbrush. Just make sure you take the models off their bases first - acetone will melt certain types of plastic.

[BrandonPHX]

Stripping the models isn't that much work at all, especially with only having to do a couple of them. Like others have said, a good soak in simple green, a toothbrush and a little elbow grease.

When you start again, just make sure the paints are thinned out. Every painter is different, but I thin my paints down to about the consistency of whole milk. Paint multiple thin layers and you'll be painting smooth in no time.

And let me end with this. Painting takes a bit of courage. Don't be afraid to screw-up, you can always strip the mini if it's really bad. I've done this several times, including the first model I ever painted (twice). Most mistakes can be fixed just by repainting or hiding with washes. Take note of the mistakes you made and endeavor to not make them again. Then get right back on your feet and attack them with confidence and gusto.

Also feel good about the fact that you didn't have issues building the Gladiator, which is one of the most annoying and ill-fitting models I have assembled.

[the solitaire]

Painters block can happen. At times like that I just tend to play miniatures I already have painted if I have the urge to play at all.
A break now and then from painting isn´t that bad. Sometimes it´s a particular model, or just the choice of painting style that gets in the way.

The main benefit of white metal and tin miniatures is that you do not lose detail when stripping the miniatures.
Key is to make sure to remove all paint. No leftovers allowed in recessed areas.

Simple green is one of the friendlier products. To clean out faces (recessed areas like eyes etc.) I prefer to rinse the models with paint thinner after having cleaned most of the paint off with something like simple green.

The only reason I would see to purchase a second copy of a miniature instead of stripping is if someone makes me a good offer on the model I failed to paint to my liking. That occasionally does happen.

[DocMerc]

In addition to simple green and nail polish remover, Pine Sol works well, as does DOT 3 Brake fluid.

Brake fluid is probably my favorite. It works great, does not harm plastic, and it is reusable about 2 or 3 times.

After a couple of times, I guess the chemicals start to break down, and it will no longer strip paint.

[squidstudios]

The advice about the Simple Green is great, I'll add my approval. I'll also say that you should be prepared to pull the models apart and scrape out the old superglue. The Simple Green will weaken the bonds but not necessarily break them, so you'll want to redo them all.

One final suggestion: (disclaimer: I haven't assembled any Cyclops yet) get some P3 modeling putty or "green stuff" to help make your joins better and stronger. While I haven't seen the Cyclops models disassembled, I've found that gluing a tiny blob of modeling epoxy into the join of two awkward parts will almost always make them hold better. It provides a more "perfect" surface area for gluing by filling in small gaps. In many cases if I use putty, I don't even pin parts together anymore, or I'll add epoxy putty just to stabilize my pinning.

Good luck, and keep your spirits up--I'm sure they'll be fine in the end!

[amazonwarlord]

I love Simple Green. The metal does get a gray color but you're painting it again anyway. I have some models I have stripped 3 times, left in SG for years and the stuff just does not hurt the minis. If you paint is real thick or stubborn just Simple green it, tooth brush it then soak again in Simple Green. Why not let it do the hard work for you.

All the advice here is great (except buying a new model - sorry bud). Walk away from it for a little while, play a few games, go look at artwork, tattoos, you never know what will inspire you again.

[herefish]

So I was in similar shoes when I started assembling my first battle groups. Turns our there is a great site (although somewhat inactive nowadays) called brushthralls.com. They often had tutorials that went from assembly to painting a complete model. In fact, they even did the faction boxes. You can find the Skorne tutorial here.

Follow the tips on assembly and painting add a dash of patience and a pinch of perseverance and whamoo you'll have a sweet sweet battle group that looks good and stays together.

Also simple green is your friend. Buy some. You do this long and you'll need to fix a few mini paintjobs sooner or later.
Best of luck.

[EpicAstinos]

Assembling the Skorne Warpack is our initiation into the Sadomasochistic, enslaving, baby-animal-torturing army that is Skorne.

for Simple Green.

Don't get discouraged over a "bad" paintjob. If it's filled the details you can strip it, and if it hasn't, you can pretend it's primer and keep going over top. My models look like crap right up until the last 2 hours or so, because I couldn't care less about my base colors. They go on sloppy, gloppy, inconsistent, and not even all where I want them to go. Then I clean up the lines a little and take it from there.

http://privateerpressforums.com/show...ed-Praetorians

Check this thread out. It's a great resource for quick and easy painting that looks good, and I would definitely suggest it if you want to practice getting painted models that don't require hours of meticulous work.

[Raven28256]

Before I even opened this topic, I said to myself "$5 says this topic is in some way about Skorne miniatures." It is like PP deliberately made some of the Skorne models annoying as hell to assemble to keep with the faction's "pain is good" theme.

[AshenFang]

So, I was excited to get my Skorne warpack in the mail today...
That is, until I opened it.

I had minimal trouble assembling Morghoul and the Titan, but the cyclops have been giving me huge pains. I finished one and sprayed it, and got down to painting, to take a break.

I had been practicing my reds for awhile now, but the paint went on too thick and dark this time, and ruined the model. I'm on painter's block. Everything's coming out bad. I picked up Ashlynn d'Elyse too (I love the sculpt) and had similar issues.

I don't know what to do at this point. I'm afraid to try to paint/build another model. I don't want to ruin them...

First off, if these are the first things you've painted, do not expect them to look like the things pictured in the books, while good examples, those things have been painted by people doing it for years. There are a lot of tutorials out there on painting, but it will take some time.

Next, as stated, as long as you haven't destroyed the detail in some fashion, the models are fine, there are several ways to strip the metal of paint, and it not be that big of a deal.

Read what you are using though, some might effect the glue making you to have to reglue them (Wash them after stripping to be sure the model is clean again), some may not, if you happen to get some of the new plastic models, because as some things that work great on the metals, will melt the plastics.

[Malcho]

Strip strip strip.

Why, I made my little fraek of an Argus yelp just days ago with an application of Easy Off Oven Cleaner and less than a day's time in a pickle jar.

[Sign Ahead]

Judging by the scent, Simple Green is a "pine cleaner" (a cleaning product that uses pine oil as the active ingredient). If you can't find Simple Green, there are plenty of alternatives available, like Pine-Sol, Xtra Pine, Pine Power or the cleverly named Walgreens All Purpose Pine Cleaner. You can even make the stuff yourself. It's reasonably safe and surprisingly effective on acrylic paint.