Results 1 to 27 of 27
  1. #1
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default Dissolving super glue but not the model...

    Is there any solvent that will eat the superglue bond but not the resin model?

    Specifically looking at taking the arms off a plastic model to magnetize the model and all 3 arm sets. It's a pretty large surface area so simply twisting to break the arm off might just do that...break the arm. Acetone would probably eat the model, so I'm unsure what might work.

    Has anyone successfully done this?

  2. #2
    Destroyer of Worlds patisarat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Straya
    Posts
    1,233

    Default

    To strip paint off models, I use a spray solvent (intended for cleaning oven ranges etc) which has 2% sodium hydroxide as the active ingredient. I spray a heap of it onto the models, then leave them to soak overnight in the resulting liquid. It doesn't hurt plastic or resin at all, but it does weaken superglue, making it brittle and easily snapped.

    Don't know if that helps you, but that's what I'd do.

  3. #3
    Moderator Mod_Plarzoid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    4,751

    Default

    On the resin models, no idea. For metals, acetone works great, but doesn't penetrate tight joints. Sometimes I have to soak stuff twice.

    I did just get the Heavy Myrmidon kit, and there's a fair bit of sprue in it. After gaming tonight, I'll toss the sprue into acetone and we'll see what happens. I'll report back.
    My Mod Voice is Trollblood Base -=- Forum Terms of Service -=- Have you read it lately?

    Quote Originally Posted by PPS_DC View Post
    Having different things appeal to different players is the way that we keep a broader audience engaged and how we appeal to new players... View the things that don't appeal to you as a necessary evil if you must, but maybe look at them instead as something that will ensure this game you play will still be around years down the road.

    Facebook | Twitter | YouTube

  4. #4
    Warrior
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    44

    Default

    I'm in the same boat, managed to get the paint off but not the glue.

    @patisarat- what is the spray solvent you use called?

  5. #5
    Destroyer of Worlds patisarat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Straya
    Posts
    1,233

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Matilda View Post
    I'm in the same boat, managed to get the paint off but not the glue.

    @patisarat- what is the spray solvent you use called?
    Don't think it's sold outside Japan. It's called 換気扇レンジクリーナー, made by リンレイ. But you should be able to find similar products in the USA. Go into the hardware store or wherever and just look for sodium hydroxide on the active ingredient list.

  6. #6
    Destroyer of Worlds patisarat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Melbourne, Straya
    Posts
    1,233

    Default

    Oops, seems the double post fairy finally paid me a visit.

  7. #7
    Destroyer of Worlds Cambeul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    2,920

    Default

    I also use Break Fluid, I know it gets rid of Paint quite well, and I think it also broke up the glue on my minis too.
    The Original Calibretto....

    That is not Cheese you smell, thats Tartarus Sauce Baby...

    Loki77515: This one guy at my LGS that I play the most LOVES to play infantry heavy Cryx lists.
    Darknesse: Is there any other kind of good Cryx list?
    Loki77515: ... No. No there are not.




  8. #8
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Cambeul - Do you mean hydraulic brake fluid? Or is this a name brand of a solvent?

    Patisarat - Do you think it would get into the sockets enough to work on the arm attachments? Or do you basically spray it to a depth where you can submerge the model?

  9. #9
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Also, if Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) is what is the cleaning/dissolving agent, then it should be fine with plastic (wife stores our lye solution in a plastic bucket). Lye is NaOH concentrated, wish I had some bits to throw in it to see the effects. Once Plarzoid gives us a report of the acetone, we should at least have a starting point. If acetone is bad then I will probably try the lye.


    (Note to anyone following this - Lye is extremely corrosive and when mixed with water has a very exothermic reaction that can easily shatter a container, work with it with caution)

  10. #10

    Default

    I believe that the sodium hydroxide solvent mentioned is available as "easy off" (and a host of generic brands) in the US. Sodium Hydroxide is just lye. It's the active ingredient in Easy Off and is also available without other additives in a lot of hardware stores.

  11. #11
    Destroyer of Worlds Top's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Fort Knox, KY
    Posts
    1,455

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mccluggen View Post
    I believe that the sodium hydroxide solvent mentioned is available as "easy off" (and a host of generic brands) in the US. Sodium Hydroxide is just lye. It's the active ingredient in Easy Off and is also available without other additives in a lot of hardware stores.
    Be very careful to never get lye anywhere near your eyes.
    "We hear that there are tumults and riots in Rome, and that voices are raised concerning the army and the quality of our soldiers. Make haste to reassure us that you love and support us as we love and support you, for if we find that we have left our bones to bleach in these sands in vain, then beware the fury of the legions."

  12. #12
    Moderator Mod_Plarzoid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    4,751

    Default

    Ok, one bit of sprue in Super Clean (purple stuff) and one in Nail Polish Remover containing acetone. I'll check on them in the morning, and we'll see if they survived!
    My Mod Voice is Trollblood Base -=- Forum Terms of Service -=- Have you read it lately?

    Quote Originally Posted by PPS_DC View Post
    Having different things appeal to different players is the way that we keep a broader audience engaged and how we appeal to new players... View the things that don't appeal to you as a necessary evil if you must, but maybe look at them instead as something that will ensure this game you play will still be around years down the road.

    Facebook | Twitter | YouTube

  13. #13
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Awesome - thanks Plarzoid.

  14. #14
    Destroyer of Worlds mathieu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    durham, NC
    Posts
    1,924

    Default

    One thing though: if your model comes attached to a sprue, it's highly unlikely to be resin (since that's what your question was about). And regardless, unless it's the same manufacturer and the same series of models, two resin models can very possibly be made of a different kind of resin.
    Similarly, and since PP models don't come in a sprue, the plastic Plarzoid tested is highly unlikely to be the same as what PP uses.

    Materials that look and feel similar-ish to us (different resins, different plastics,...) may have very different chemical properties, and may react very differently to solvents. Plarzoid's experiment is exactly what everyone should do when in doubt (*), but it's worthless to you, Moknim, unless you know for a fact that he/she used the same material you are working with.

    (*) Anything with acetone will dissolve pretty much anything plastic you throw in it, btw. It might take longer if acetone is diluted (polish remover) and therefore not be noticeable if you dip for a relatively short period of time, but it still will eat details away from your model. I'd advise extreme caution when using it on any kind of "plastic" model: always test on a inconsequential bit of material first (as Plarzoid does), and never leave the model soaking for longer than what you tested as "safe".
    This is true for any kind of solvent and materials really, but acetone is one of the strongest freely available and often suggested on mini forums. I made the mistake once of testing brake fluid on a GF9 resin piece (works great, that resin takes it like a champ even after a couple of weeks), and of assuming a Rackham resin model would be just as fine in it. Like I said, different materials may react very differently... Likewise, Simple Green / Purple Power will weaken some plastics if they soak for several days in it (prepainted plastic in my case).
    Last edited by mathieu; 10-15-2010 at 04:33 AM.
    mathieu thérézien, durham, NC

  15. #15
    Destroyer of Worlds Yurimow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Milano, Italy
    Posts
    1,002

    Default

    physical method used on some pewter minis when turpentine oil didn't work:
    - put the mini in the freezer
    - after an hour or two get it out and drop it into hot/boiling water
    - try to pull the pieces apart
    if it doesn't work, repeat.

    This method is for sure very innefficient, but some times it's the last resort. I suppose if repeated mor times on a metal model, it softens the metal. Never tried it on a plastic/resin model, so i have no idea if it works and what might happen to the miniature.


    Khador: 145/200 (+ 8/10 casters) painted
    Mercs: 14/16 painted

  16. #16
    Conqueror
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Renton, WA
    Posts
    461

    Default

    Acetone doesn't damage every plastic. After all, nail polish removers are sold in plastic bottles, and can sit around for years.

    Also, do not drop your plastic models in boiling water, you won't get the same thing back.

  17. #17
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mathieu View Post
    One thing though: if your model comes attached to a sprue, it's highly unlikely to be resin (since that's what your question was about). And regardless, unless it's the same manufacturer and the same series of models, two resin models can very possibly be made of a different kind of resin.
    Similarly, and since PP models don't come in a sprue, the plastic Plarzoid tested is highly unlikely to be the same as what PP uses.
    This is why I am waiting on Plarzoid's results since he is using spare bits from the heavy myrmidon kit.

  18. #18
    Destroyer of Worlds MadJack's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Vancouver, BC
    Posts
    5,606

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mathieu View Post
    Similarly, and since PP models don't come in a sprue, the plastic Plarzoid tested is highly unlikely to be the same as what PP uses.
    Actually, many of the heavy warjack parts come on small pieces of sprue, and Plarzoid said that he was using some sprue from the Heavy Myrmidon kit.
    Quote Originally Posted by PPS_Dougseacat View Post
    The Casio calculator is far better at doing math than a warjack. The warjack is better at walking around, obeying orders, and murdering things with weapons.
    Cygnar: 500 points & 14 Warcasters painted / 634 points & 14 Warcasters total

  19. #19
    Destroyer of Worlds mathieu's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    durham, NC
    Posts
    1,924

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Moknim View Post
    This is why I am waiting on Plarzoid's results since he is using spare bits from the heavy myrmidon kit.
    Quote Originally Posted by MadJack View Post
    Actually, many of the heavy warjack parts come on small pieces of sprue, and Plarzoid said that he was using some sprue from the Heavy Myrmidon kit.
    My mistake... I had to check in a dictionary for a definition of sprue, which ends up covering a wider array of meanings than I originally thought. I read "sprue", immediately thought "GW", and blanked out the rest of the post
    mathieu thérézien, durham, NC

  20. #20

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nion View Post
    Acetone doesn't damage every plastic. After all, nail polish removers are sold in plastic bottles, and can sit around for years.

    Also, do not drop your plastic models in boiling water, you won't get the same thing back.
    As a general rule of thumb, acetone will react with hard or brittle plastics. Polypropylene is one of the sorts of plastic that is safe with acetone, but it isn't commonly used for miniatures. Resin miniatures are generally acrylic, which is highly reactive to acetone. It will soften and eventually dissolve them.

  21. #21
    Moderator Mod_Plarzoid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    4,751

    Default

    Ok, here are the results.

    After about 12-14 hours in nail polish remover (that has acetone in it) the sprue is not a puddle of mush! It has lost the majority of it's rigidity. I can barely bend the half I didn't soak, and the half that I did soak, I can bend over onto itself, and twist a full 360 degrees. So, I'm fairly certain that if you were to soak the PP plastics in acetone for more than a day, the results would not be favorable. I wouldn't even suggest soaking overnight.

    I cut the end off part of the sprue and it looks like the acetone penetrated the material about halfway from the surface to the center, so that explains why it's lost it's rigidness, but won't just fall apart. The cool part is it heals. I dug a fingernail into it, and a few minutes later, I couldn't find the mark. It's basically rubberized the sprue.

    I'm going to run a second experiment. I'm going to glue two fresh bits of sprue together, soak them for 30 minutes to an hour and see if they'll come apart, and what shape they're in. The parts are glueing now, and I'll report back again tonight!
    Last edited by Mod_Plarzoid; 10-15-2010 at 01:35 PM.
    My Mod Voice is Trollblood Base -=- Forum Terms of Service -=- Have you read it lately?

    Quote Originally Posted by PPS_DC View Post
    Having different things appeal to different players is the way that we keep a broader audience engaged and how we appeal to new players... View the things that don't appeal to you as a necessary evil if you must, but maybe look at them instead as something that will ensure this game you play will still be around years down the road.

    Facebook | Twitter | YouTube

  22. #22
    Conqueror toadchild's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Baltimore, MD, USA
    Posts
    237

    Default

    I usually use rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol if I'm worried about damaging plastic. It does dissolve both acrylic paints and superglue, although nowhere near as well as acetone. I've safely left plastic in there for weeks with no ill effects whatsoever.

    You can usually find it in drugstores at 70% and 97% solutions for pretty cheap. Obviously the higher concentration will be more potent.

  23. #23
    Destroyer of Worlds Yurimow's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Milano, Italy
    Posts
    1,002

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Nion View Post
    Also, do not drop your plastic models in boiling water, you won't get the same thing back.
    Ups, right. Forgot people use hot water/hair dryer to bend bent pieces back to proper shape.

    @Plarzoid

    can it be that the PP plastic absorbs the acetone-whatever becoming gummy, but after a while it fumes out and gets back to the original stiffness?


    Khador: 145/200 (+ 8/10 casters) painted
    Mercs: 14/16 painted

  24. #24
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Plarzoid View Post
    After about 12-14 hours in nail polish remover (that has acetone in it) the sprue is not a puddle of mush! It has lost the majority of it's rigidity. I can barely bend the half I didn't soak, and the half that I did soak, I can bend over onto itself, and twist a full 360 degrees. So, I'm fairly certain that if you were to soak the PP plastics in acetone for more than a day, the results would not be favorable. I wouldn't even suggest soaking overnight.

    I cut the end off part of the sprue and it looks like the acetone penetrated the material about halfway from the surface to the center, so that explains why it's lost it's rigidness, but won't just fall apart. The cool part is it heals. I dug a fingernail into it, and a few minutes later, I couldn't find the mark. It's basically rubberized the sprue.

    I'm going to run a second experiment. I'm going to glue two fresh bits of sprue together, soak them for 30 minutes to an hour and see if they'll come apart, and what shape they're in. The parts are glueing now, and I'll report back again tonight!
    That's kinda what I expected from the acetone, although I was hopeful it would be fine.

    That leaves Simple Green (don't think it really breaks down superglue bonds all that well though), Lye/Oven Cleaner, Super Clean (purple cleaner stuff), rubbing alcohol (which according to Google works at least moderately well), and perhaps tossing it in the freezer to weaken the bond.

  25. #25

    Default

    Tossing it into the freezer and then running it under plain out-of-the-tap hot water will probably be just as good as the boiling water method and safe for the plastic. You just want to heat it up quickly, the temp difference won't be as extreme as boiling but it will still likely be enough to do the trick. It also has the benefit of being free and you will lose very little to trying it out.

  26. #26
    Moderator Mod_Plarzoid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Northern Virginia
    Posts
    4,751

    Default

    An hour in the soak didn't do it. It rubberized the outermost coating of the plastic, but didn't weaken the superglue bond.

    Acetone's a no go
    My Mod Voice is Trollblood Base -=- Forum Terms of Service -=- Have you read it lately?

    Quote Originally Posted by PPS_DC View Post
    Having different things appeal to different players is the way that we keep a broader audience engaged and how we appeal to new players... View the things that don't appeal to you as a necessary evil if you must, but maybe look at them instead as something that will ensure this game you play will still be around years down the road.

    Facebook | Twitter | YouTube

  27. #27
    Conqueror Moknim's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Cheyenne, WY
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Plarzoid View Post
    An hour in the soak didn't do it. It rubberized the outermost coating of the plastic, but didn't weaken the superglue bond.

    Acetone's a no go
    Only 1 hour and it started the deterioration of the plastic? Note to self, acetone needs to stay as far from plastic minis as possible. >.<

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •