Dipping Question

[eldubiousmung]

I've given up. I'm one of those guys who spends 10 hours on a single model, then looks at the rest and says "screw that noise, I'm taking a nap".

It's time to lower my standards. I want to dip.

Now, my local shop has the Army Painter dips, and I was wondering if I use it on my Retribution, will it fill in the glowy runes bits too much?

[Rathy]

I cannot say for the dipping, but with the wash, I put some color after the wash. The highlight, and for my retribution, the green or blue for the small detail.

[Dooz]

first things first, put on some steel toed boots, walk to your local shop, kick in the display case where they keep the army painter, and dump it in the gutter.

or you know, if you actually like them, don't do that. probably shouldn't do that. Jail food isn't that great.

the point is, don't buy army painter, because its just floor stain in a prettier can, sold in a comic shop. Army painter dip is a lot like $15 citadel spray paint, you'll buy it because its there, and on the drive home you'll pass a hardware store or a home depot and get really sad because you'll realize that 15 bucks could have bought you the same paint 2 or 3 times over anywhere else.

the first thing you should do is go find a good dip guide. I would recommend Coolminiornot.com. Read some of the older dip guides with high ratings, and you'll come to find out that the guys who pioneered the technique and figured the whole thing out are using minwax, which you can get cheaper than the army painter. Take their advice, do it the right way, and don't pay any extra for a prettier label. Hobbyists are gluttons for punishment when it comes to the wallet.

[drachenfels]

Als biggest tip i can give - DO NOT DIP!!!
if you want to use a 'dip' medium that's fine and ive seen some GREAT results with it before... but dont just dunk your mini into a pool of it... get an older larger brush and paint it on. that way you can more easily control the amount that gets where, and can use a second moist (not wet, moist) brush to pull off excess. Doing it in this method you should be able to pull most/all of the liquid out of the recesses and not ruin detail for very fine areas like the glowing runes. (or to ensure that enough gets in them if you want them as in steel etchings or similar)

[Asp]

I's say don't dip and skip the wood stain. Go for a heavy wash instead. You achieve the same effect with less fuss and quicker dry times.

I dipped mini's for a while till reading about Devlan Wash and seeing its results looked alot like a dipped mini. Anyway I picked up a pot and after trying it ditched the minwax. Advantages: dries in an hour rather than a day, doesn't destroy brushes, easier to control, less super shine effect, doesn't goob up and bury detils. Disadvantage: Doesn't provide the level of paint chip protection that minwax does.

-Asp

[MagnustheJust]

If you are dead set on going the dip route, go to the hardware store or Home Despot, and buy a can of Min-Wax polyurethane instead of the army painter stuff...

The army painter stuff is a quality product {I love their brushes personally!!}, but it is essentially Min-Wax for 3-4 times the price as far as the dip goes. You can buy a gallon at any other place that carries Min-Wax!!

NOTE - I am just using Min-Wax as an example, as I really do not know any other brand names of polyurethane stain...

[hausdorff space]

Dipped Retribution:


You have to be careful that the dip doesn't pool (easily hides under the should pads), but otherwise there are like no issues with dipping Ret. A couple more pictures can be found HERE on Lyoss is Burning, if you check the side bar they give a guide to dipping too.

This was done with simple hardware store stuff.
I haven't looked too hard at the Army Painter stuff, but it looks expensive, and I have to wonder how you would go about dipping a Phoenix into one of those pots.

[Crate123]

Shame its Retribution because those jacks dont really gain much from dipping/washing since their flat surfaces are so big.
I suggest washing instead of dipping.

[Jake the Dog]

My brother uses Army painter dips on some stuff. He uses it for Warhammer Fantasy as you need to paint hordes of models. He just basecoats a solid color the brush on the dip. After this, you can do highlights if desired (optional, he skips if he wants to speed up further). Last step if to use a Matte Sealer as the Dip leaves a sheen on it.
A good thing to keep in mind is to go toward earth tone colors and metals, as it is a brownish tint.

Example pics (Warhammer model)
Pre-Dip:


Post-Dip and Matte Spray:

[komodokeeper]

Correcting me if I'm wrong, but isn't a lot of dipping just 'extreme washing' with a little less exacting?

[Jake the Dog]

Correcting me if I'm wrong, but isn't a lot of dipping just 'extreme washing' with a little less exacting?

Yes and no. Both shade but don't look the same. Dips also coat in varnish as part of the process.

[drachenfels]

Pretty much. Washes/inks are generally done sparingly in select locations with colors to match the paint, then highlighted after, then a sealer coat applied.
Dipping forgoes the 'select locations', highlighting, and secondary sealer coat most times.