I have a simple question. The tattoos on the Hex Hunters, is that Arcane Blue, Meridius Blue or some mix of other colors?
Quick question. I can't get the lightning stuff like Thunderhead's/eNemo's coils to look right. I tried a bunch of techniques but none of them give the desired effect. I really like yours. Any tips on how to accomplish it?
Keep up the good work, S
If people could put rainbows in zoos, they'd do it.
2 quick questions:
1) What Grays did/do you use for your paint job on Saxon Orrick in the 1/18 insider post? (inside cloak and shoufa) I have yet to duplicate the color to good effect, and I need some grays for my mercs.
2) How do you accent the seems on Orrick's cloak (back)? I find myself making patchwork that looks like a big stained cloth because I can't add that definition line between colors. Most impressive.
Last edited by baronvonchaos; 01-18-2011 at 03:02 PM.
Why is all the pirate gone?
Need Moar Pirates...
Hey Matt, is this topic dead? Haven't see a reply since 8/09
I realize the studio is busy, but just wondering
Get serious, paint your stuff
The two P3 paints that are not in production...
Is there a mix of available colors that can be used for
Molten Bronze -
Rhulic Gold -
Lonely Monk http://lonelymonk.wordpress.com/
The two highest achievements of the human mind are the twin concepts of "loyalty" and "duty." Whenever these twin concepts fall into disrepute ? get out of there fast! You may possibly save yourself, but it is too late to save that society. It is doomed.
hi guys i was just wondering what paint you use to highlight the cryx jack armor and what blending/juicing tecneaks you used i am talking about the grey armor plating thanks
Say, how do your sculptors make the large tesla coils on the Storm Strider (or if that's digitally sculpted, then on a model like the Thunderhead)? I'm not asking about the actual coiled wire, but about the conical cap and the perforated grill sheath that wraps around the coil.
Trying to make a custom Nemo base and I'm looking for authentic methods of creating that tesla coil look. Suggestions?
"What oft was squawked, but ne'er so well expressed"
Sable Quill - my painting blog
Ok 3 pages later... How do you paint a Purebloods yellowish fur and blend the edges without camoflouging them with the skin? Secondly what steps should I take painting Jewels/glowing eyes on warjacks? Thank you for your time.
Any Excuse will do...
My question is regarding the awesome muddy look you do on cloaks and the bottom of jacks, and even more so specifically, the bottom of the Storm Strider's legs. What colors and technique is used to acheive that?
Modeling Blog: http://privateerpressforums.com/show...-Painting-Blog
Wurmwood tree : What colors were used for the deadish looking tree, not the browns for the actual bark.
Hey there Matt. I was wondering how you achieve that "matte" look to the studio figures (and a lot of professional figures) that you do. I just started using Jen Haley's "gunk" mix (50% water, 25% slow-dri, 25% flow improver) but I found that the nyss flesh I had painted was still pretty glossy (which I hate). Any help would be much appreciated!
Hello all - this question is to pretty much anyone who can answer (or has had experience dealing with this particular situation):
I took a long 2 year break from painting and recently I have found in some of my old painting supplies; including a brand new, sealed Cygnar P3 Boxed Paint set. These paints have been sitting in a moderately warm (cause I live in Southern, Ca) closet for about a little over 2 years now.
1. Are these paints still usable?
2. If not, when I buy new P3 paints, how can I tell if the ones that I have bought haven't been sitting in a store's shelf for an extended amount of time which would affect the quality of the paint; i.e. is there a batch production date on the pots?
I have no problem buying new paints...I was just curious if the ones in the boxed set could be salvaged.
Thanks for your help!
Yes, they should still be good. I had my last round of pots for 3 years roughly and they worked just fine. Make sure to shake them really well and possibly add a touch of filtered water to some if they are thick.
Basically, give them a go and make sure they haven't dried out completely. If they are thick just thin them a bit.
Google "plexiglass display case" and you should come up with a ton of options. I would recommend something that has some adjustable shelves or cubby holes larger than 6 inches tall. I've got a few minis that I can't put in that case since it's on my table now. You can also check out Ikea for a more affordable option as the plexiglass ones can get expensive really fast. Or you can look for Curio Cabinets online, at antique store, flea markets, second hand stores, etc. Curio cabinets make nice little display cases for minis.
The answer depends on what type of bone effect you are going for--dirty, clean, naturally aged? They look different (former archaeologist and bone junkie) due to what elements they are exposed to.
For a clean bone look start with menoth white base for your basecoat, mix in some menoth white highlight to that for an intermediate tone and go up to menoth white highlight from there. You can add a little bit of morrow white as well for the brightest highlight.
If you want the bone to look a little dirty you can still start with the same mix and then glaze in some cryx bane base or highlight or some other green grey color. You can be a bit sloppy with that and not worry about it being an even coat. Another route to go is to use some weathering pigments, the smoke colors, to help age bone. I've used it and basically apply it liberally to the painted surface then with my finger will wipe off the area I just applied it to and the pigment will lodge in the recesses and really look like dirt.
[QUOTE=lord tyrant watt;146205]Hey Matt,
In the new MK2 prime book, in the protecterate model gallery section, the choir of menoth has a different color used on their robes, it doesnt seem to be the typical sanguine color, is it a different paint scheme or are the pictures producing a different effect?
If it is different, what were the colors used?
Based on what I know, they were actually painted before the P3 paints were developed . . . I think that's what Kruzie said.
Basecoat: mix of umbral umber, brown ink and molten bronze
Highlight (HL) 1: molten bronze
HL 2: rhulic gold
HL 3: Brass balls and rhulic gold
HL 4: Brass balls and radiant platinum
I'd seal it then with dullcote and then add a touch of quicksilver to the highest highlight.
You can also go back in with umbral umber and brown ink to add some darker shadows. If you do this use a glaze, a very thin but controlled layer of paint. You don't want it to be too thick.
Make sure you're using zenithal lighting when painting so you can figure out where to paint in the highlights and shadows. For this kind of work you will need to start from a mid tone and work your way down to shadow and then back up to highlight (or whatever order you like doing it in). You'll need to work with paint that is thinned down a little bit but not too much and just blend for smooth transitions.
Matt uses 2 brush blending in studio; put a dab of paint in a recessed area and use a clean brush soaked in your saliva to lead into that spot of paint and pull some if it back out and blend that color over top of your basecoat.
I'm still learning this myself but I use a glazing technique that applies thin layers of paint and slowly tints the area I'm applying my paint to. This helps to give you that smooth transition right off the bat. I glaze my shadows in and then carefully layer my highlights.
I've been using pots in the studio and as far as I know nothing is new or has been changed yet. They are pots that were already opened by the time I got there. <shrugs> I've only been in the studio for a month and a half.
As for when the problem is going to be solved and those colors back on the market, that's a question for marketing. I know they are still working on it but that's all I know.
What was the color blend used on the armor of Constance Blaize and Gallant? It looks like it has a blueish green tint with maybe Frostbite as the highlight.
YAY Meg! Glad you're around to answer these posts ! Warm welcome to you.
"I have not failed, I've just found ten thousand ways that won't work." ? Thomas Edison
Hey, have a question about one colour I always have trouble with, and that's white (although I guess that's not technically a colour). Specifically, shading and highlighting clean, bright whites. Every time I try it just looks flat and quite boring. I would really appreciate any advice I can get!
I've noticed that the Skorne skin tone has been gradually changing from the very pale reddish of Primal and Evolution towards a more yellow/tan look. Would it be safe to say that the skin guide for the Extoller in Metamorphosis represents the most up-to-date palette?
Void Seer Mordikaar seems to have his own (even yellower) skintone, which I rather fancy. Any chance of getting a rundown on how that particular look was achieved?
Thanks in advance.
well there are 2 different whites that people use most often. Warm whites and cool whites. For a warm white start with Menoth White Base, shade using some Cryx Bane to shade it and highlight with Menoth white highlight and you can even take it up to Morrow white.
For a cool white start with something like underbelly blue and greycoat grey to get a medium bluish grey. highlight by adding some underbelly blue and morrow white more and more each round of highlights until you are at pure morrow white for the highest highlight.
That's the quick and dirty info anyway.
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You can find my painted minis in the Painting Thread Locator.
Don't be afraid to paint outside the lines!
A question regarding priming metal models, Im currently testing out Tamiya's Fine surface primer (for plastic and metal is says), after one light coat, the paint comes off from just a little scratch. When i mean little I mean its almost just a soft brush of the finger. Ive read somewhere that you can use a dullcote on the metal surface first before priming, will it also work if I used the dullcote AFTER I've put on the primer?
Are you letting the primer cure completely? I've used Tamiya for years and never had this issue with it. Also are you washing your models before priming? If not that may be why. When you handle a model you get oil from you skin on it along with the talc that's been used in the manufacturing process. Always make sure to clean the surface. Dullcote is not going to help in this situation because it's not a sealer it is just what it says, a dull coat. It doesn't add to the durability of your paint.
thanks for the info, i noticed after some time that I tried to wash the primer off to start again, but when I used a toothbrush to test how flaky it is, the primer wouldnt come off at all :O no flaking/scratching
I am starting Retribution of Scyrah soon.
I am aiming to paint them in the Studio colour scheme. But white.... *trembling bottom lip*
My GW army is Black Templars. Basically heaps of black and a little bit of white as the crosses. I have been underwhelmed by white as a paint.
So I would paint onto the black undercoat:
white, a few times.
All have been thinned out to get it to cover and not obscure detail.
But the white seems to end up chalky.... why is it so?
If I cannot paint white well, I'll be a sad pony. Help me be of good cheer
Thank you for your time.
Without seeing the model I'm going to guess that it's been overprimed. With any primer you want a thin or light coat of primer. Matt and I prime two different ways but the way I prime is first I stick the model to some sort of handle using poster tack or double sided sticky tape. Most often I use the top of a spray can. Then I do quick shots of primer on the model from all angles until I get a pretty good coat. If some metal is still peeking through that's ok.
Without seeing exactly what you are doing it's hard to comment on why your white might be ending up chalky. White tends to have more pigment in it than other colors do to get the opaqueness that is needed. This means that the more you paint the more chalky it will end up looking once it's dried. The brand of paint you are using may also be having an effect. Are you using P3s?
When you want to paint white I'd recommend priming white. It's vastly easier than trying to paint over black. Even if most of your army is going to be black, still prime white. It's easier to go from white to black than black to white. And faster!
As for your Retribution Army--follow the guide in the back of the book. That's all I did when I painted Aspis. I am getting all of my recipes from the army books that we publish. You will see that it's not really white you are painting--it's a light blue grey. Any time you want to achieve a white look, figure out if you want a warm white (beige) or a cool white (a light grey). Adding a little bit of color into your white will help combat that chalky look you are getting. Also, really thin layers. I used mixing medium to thin out my layers a lot on Aspis. That way you get the translucency but shouldn't get any bath tub ring effects from the paint being too watered down.
Post #52 has the best photo of my men, as you can see the more recent photos have killed the contrast and I had to use 'enhance' to get the light better. My photo-fu needs work They are generally up to 95% black and metal, so the black undercoat has saved me quite a bit of time.
I might try doing three or so with white undercoat. I am happy to give anything a whirl :P
I have just bought some P3s, but from the black, I use a couple of layers of GW greys, so I have not been able to conduct a full product range versus product range in that regard.
I spoke to a guy who is a great painter, and he said a similar thing to you about white. Pure white can end up chalky, but light colour and then white stops that. Interesting to hear, and it is nice when it comes from two independent sources
Funny you should say about the paint rings. I just had that problem and posted about that on Bolter&Chainsword [a forum for Space marine players] and had not received any info on using a 'chemical' to fix the rings. GW doesn't have that in its range, so we just wouldn't know about it.
I have available 'glaze medium' 'retarder medium' and 'thinner medium' from Vallejo. Is P3 mixing medium like any of these? If I can try those Vallejo ones [the one you say is like mixing medium] and am happy with it, then I will happily by some mixing medium
Thank you for your help. You are a keeper <3
What is the formula for making that amazing flesh tone on the slag troll!!!??!