Ask the Studio!

[Michael]

Greetings Matt and Meg. I have two Harkevich questions for you.

Can you tell me how you painted the fur trim on Kommander Harkevich's coat and collar? I'm having real trouble getting something that looks nice.

Also, how are the rectangular plates on the bottom rear of Harkevich's cloak painted?

Thanks much!

[Michael]

Additionally: how did you paint the very white fur trim on Koldun Kapitan Valachev's cloak?

What colors were used for the subtle purplish color on Ragman's overcoat?

[Michael]

And one last, preemptive question: can you please describe in detail how Conquest was painted?

[PPS_Meg]

I wish I could answer some of these questions for ya Michael, but these are all Matt questions.

[nublet]

In some of the PP pictures for Cryx models I see runes on the warjacks. I was wondering if these are straight painted on? Or do you have to roll some green stuff super thin and maybe shape it on wax-paper before pressing the model onto it? Thanks

[PPS_Leo]

This isn't related to minis, but I'm not sure where else to ask.

How do you guys paint the stucco on your buildings? Like this:

http://privateerpress.com/content/charge

I'm talking about the pale, yellowish part of the building. Is that a stippling effect with a sponge or... what?

Thanks for noticing. Hobby questions are perfectly okay to ask in this thread.

That plaster effect is one of my favorites because of it's simplicity and the outstanding result it produces. As with most scenery, the secret lays in the physical texture. While constructing your building, lay down a very thin, semi-smooth layer of wood filler putty over the flat surface of your wall. This should be done before adding details and fine parts because the putty tends to get a little messy. Let the putty fully dry, and then go back with sand paper and smooth out most of the surface, leaving some cracks and recesses showing.

As for the paint job, start out by giving the wall a solid Basecoat with Jack Bone. Then apply a solid wash of Brown Ink, Armor Wash, and Water, with a dot of Turquoise Ink (to neutralize the red of the Brown Ink) over the entire wall. Then, quickly, use your hand to wipe away most of the ink. You want to use swift, swiping motions to avoid leaving finger marks. Make sure to leave ink around the outer edges of the wall and in the deep recesses. I suppose a sponge could work for this if you're worried about getting your hands dirty, but it's hard to imagine having the same level of control with a sponge. You can go back with an old Large Flat Brush and gently poke the ink to get it exactly where you want it. Lastly drybrush the center area with Menoth White Highlight, fading out towards the edges.

[Murukai]

Firstly i'd just like to say how great i think it is that PP put the effort in t answer questions on forumlae, and paint techniques; something GW ect usually don't, so thanks!

Question wise though, i was just wondering what sheme you use for some of the skin with the studios cryx warcasters? Are there any extensive blending techniques used? And if so what kind of colour pallet would you reccomend for doing a paler skin tone?

Thanks again Murukai

[Shadowdragon]

I'm interested in painting my khador army in the theme used for the winterguard, but I'm having trouble matching the grey/blue colour. According to the FoW book it's basically greatcoak grey with black and white added for shading and highlighting. However, when I try that it turns out more charcoal, not the blue/grey shown in the pictures. Is my greatcoak grey defective, or is there actually supposed to be a little blue mixed in, or were the studio models painted using different colours than those listed in the FoW book?

[PPS_Meg]

I'm interested in painting my khador army in the theme used for the winterguard, but I'm having trouble matching the grey/blue colour. According to the FoW book it's basically greatcoak grey with black and white added for shading and highlighting. However, when I try that it turns out more charcoal, not the blue/grey shown in the pictures. Is my greatcoak grey defective, or is there actually supposed to be a little blue mixed in, or were the studio models painted using different colours than those listed in the FoW book?

I haven't tried painting this particular color but if you aren't getting the results you'd like try adding a little bit of exile blue with the your shadow and highlight mixes. This will bring some of the blue back. Also, most of our techniques in the studio are meant to be applied using 2 brush blending. The results will vary a bit if you are using different techniques.

[SimjinSmythe]

Awesome thread as always...Matt and Meg, do you have any happen to have the formula for the Archidon's and the Skorne Ferox tigers floating around by chance?

[PPS_Meg]

Hey Matt/Meg

My question is: I saw an interview with Matt on Lost Hemisphere where he mentions that he has his own quality level (what he paints his own figs to), a studio level, and then a competition level. I'm wondering what tips you both have for painting models to a "studio" level quality. The studio miniatures always seem so crisp and clean, which is a style I've been trying to learn for some time.

Thanks!

Honestly, just trying to get the nice clean paint jobs and trying to emulate someone else's paint job that you like will help. Practice makes perfect. If you like the studio paint jobs then I'd recommend trying to learn 2 brush blending techniques. If you can come to Lock n Load then Matt and I can teach you a few things and possibly be better able to answer your questions.

Without an example handy it's really hard to give this kind of advice other than to say just practice makes perfect. If you can sit down for an hour 5 days out of the week at least that will go a long way.

[PPS_Meg]

Either and/or both, please, Meg - if that doesn't seem greedy.

I'd also be interested in hearing how you determined which bits of armour were going to be which colour, as apart from the filigree in places, there doesn't seem to be a lot of texture differential.

These recipes were for Rocinante which got very close to Damiano's armor.

I believe the gold started with Rhulic gold, then Rhulic with some brown ink for shading, some umbral umber and exile blue with some brown ink in the mix. Highlight using Rhulic and Solid Gold then finally Solid Gold with some Quicksilver in it.

The brown armor started with Umbral Umber and highlighted with Gun corp and shaded down with brown ink.

The color placement is determined by the concept artists. We get color roughs and then have to match where the colors go.

[Quodula]

Hello Meg/Matt!

Are the painting instructions for the Cryx armor the same what you used to paint the studio figures? The step-by-step pictures in the book seem a lot, A LOT lighter than what the studio models look like (I'm talking about the instructions to paint "cryx bane" in case that didn't come across).

Thanks!

[PPS_Meg]

Big Trollbloods question, hope it can be answered:
How where the Skin Tones for the Winter Troll (and Rök), Swamp Troll, Earthborn Troll, Slag Troll, Storm Troll, Pyre Troll, and Albino trolls (the Madraks, Grim Angus, and Janissa Stonetide) painted?

I'm no expect painter, so the more detailed explanation, the better.

If the Pyre, Winter, and Earthborn where painted similarly to the corresponding Whelp in the Forces Book tutorial, then there isn't much need to address those, I think...

I haven't painted all of those models but I have painted Rok. I started out with a mix of Frostbite and Trollblood Base for the basecoat and then added some Meridius blue, Cryx Bane Base, and Sanguine Base for the shadows. I used 2 brush blending for both shading and highlighting the model. The highlights were done using the basecoat base and adding more frostbite and some menoth white highlight on the tummy and palms of Rok.

It was a lot of building up of layers using 2 brush blending though.

The Whelps painting guide is a good place to start for painting their corresponding larger troll models.

[PPS_Meg]

WHOOPS! I finally dug out the issue in question, #40, and was totally wrong. It was Ted Burgess' column on custom basing I'm referencing, where he mentions using a mixture of P3 Bloodstone and baking soda for a really neat rust effect on Durgen Madhammer's base. Should have looked at that in the first place before posting, my bad!

My guess would be then . . . mind you I do not know Ted and can't ask him for reference but from looking at the pictures . . . you want just enough to add texture to the paint as it dries. You may also want to add a little bit of Khador Red Highlight to this mix, just a touch to make the rust a bit different. You can also do several layers of this technique, slightly changing the color to give the rust a varied look.

I'd suggest mixing enough baking soda in the paint to give it a paste-like texture. Not too thick but thicker than your paint normally is and with visible texture present. This may take more than you think though.

I also use baking soda and PVC glue for snowy bases. In case anyone needed good snow recipe.

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

Morning Matt/Meg,

Quick question - what colours were used when you were painting Damiano's armour?

I tried to keep things pretty simple on this one since the composition is dense with detail. The brown plates are painted thus:
Base: Gun Corp. brn
Shade: Umbral Umber
Shade: Brown ink + small dot of Thamar black

With two-brushing you can get away with just these three layers.

Trim was blacked out and painted in a fairly standard gold method... probably like the one laid out in Forces: Cygnar but not quite sure.

Also - Matt, can you please change the colour tag you're using by the answers in the opening posts in the thread? The yellow on a white/light grey background is practically illegible.

Done.

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

Big Trollbloods question, hope it can be answered:
How where the Skin Tones for the Winter Troll (and Rök), Swamp Troll, Earthborn Troll, Slag Troll, Storm Troll, Pyre Troll, and Albino trolls (the Madraks, Grim Angus, and Janissa Stonetide) painted?

I'm no expect painter, so the more detailed explanation, the better.

If the Pyre, Winter, and Earthborn where painted similarly to the corresponding Whelp in the Forces Book tutorial, then there isn't much need to address those, I think...

I can confirm that the Pyre, Winter, and Earthborn where painted similarly to the corresponding Whelp in the Forces Book tutorial. I don't have the formula for the slag troll... probably went something like this though:

Base: Ironhull grey
Shade: greatcoat grey+ Sanguine base
Shade: add exile blue and a couple drops of battlefield brown to previous
Highlight: Ironhull + TBH

Growths and finger nails were painted in one of the standard steel painting methods...


I think the Swamp troll was painted in a similar fashion to the earthborn but with olive greens such as Ordic Olive, Battledress green, and traitor green mixed into the various mixtures. I had to get this one done under a serious crunch so not much from the process stuck.


Albino trolls?... I think I do them different every time ... I think I did this once tho:
Base: TBH + Underbelly
Shade: add Iron hull and dot of sanguine base applied in a glaze
Shade: add a dot of Exile blue to previous and really the glaze
Highlight: TBH+Morrow
Highlight: Morrow White

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

Hey Matt/Meg

My question is: I saw an interview with Matt on Lost Hemisphere where he mentions that he has his own quality level (what he paints his own figs to), a studio level, and then a competition level. I'm wondering what tips you both have for painting models to a "studio" level quality. The studio miniatures always seem so crisp and clean, which is a style I've been trying to learn for some time.

Thanks!

Here is a quick overview of the PP studio style:
The PP studio style is painted over black primer. Generally the process consists of a basecoated midtone with at least two shades and two highlights. Smooth blends of these highlights and shades are achieved by two-brush blending. The various sections of the model are seperated by a black line that is very thin because it is not free hand painted on, instead the black line is left over when the basecoat is applied over a blacked out area. Also all studio models are painted with a zenith light source in mind. These are what gives the PP studio models their clean readable look

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

Hello folks,

Was wondering if you guys know what was used for the white fur on Zerkova, and also the Orgoth items?

Thanks in advance!
BC

Fur...
Base: Ironhull grey
Highlight: CXH
Highlight: TBH
Highlight: TBH + MWH
Highlight: MWH
Highlight: Morrow white

Orgoth artifacts...
Base: Wurm green
Wash: Green ink+ turquoise ink
Shade: add Thamar black to previous
Highlight Wurm green + MWH

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

What was the color blend used on the armor of Constance Blaize and Gallant? It looks like it has a blueish green tint with maybe Frostbite as the highlight.

Pick up NQ ten year anniversary for a full tutorial

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

Ok the eyes of the swamp horror are fannnnnntastic. I'd like to know how that was done. Are they actually metallic, or is there a variant of NMM in there?

Tutorial in Hordes: Domination

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

In some of the PP pictures for Cryx models I see runes on the warjacks. I was wondering if these are straight painted on? Or do you have to roll some green stuff super thin and maybe shape it on wax-paper before pressing the model onto it? Thanks

They are painted on. The point of a studio figure is to present the model as-is so we never alter the sculpture with putty but don't let that discourage you from converting your own jack!

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

I'm interested in painting my khador army in the theme used for the winterguard, but I'm having trouble matching the grey/blue colour. According to the FoW book it's basically greatcoak grey with black and white added for shading and highlighting. However, when I try that it turns out more charcoal, not the blue/grey shown in the pictures. Is my greatcoak grey defective, or is there actually supposed to be a little blue mixed in, or were the studio models painted using different colours than those listed in the FoW book?

Try this mixture instead:
Base: Greatcoat grey
Shade: greatcoat + Battlefield brown
Shade: Exile blue + battlefield brown
Highlight: Greatcoat grey + TBH

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

How would I go about painting the studio menoth white (and other colors, from the warjacks mainly). What colours/techniques would you use/recommend? I can paint to a relatively basic TTQ level, so any tips/suggestions you give would be most useful to me in a relatively simple format with not too much complex painting terminology.

Thanks in advance!

I thought we did a pretty good job of this in the MKII and forces books... Have you tried those tutorials... having any specific problems?

[PPS_Matt DiPietro]

Thinking of a large Bane Army. 30 - 60. Search on "dipping" models gave me lots of options and opinions. Whats the studios experience (if any) with this process? Army painter vs. Minwax. Oil vs. water base. Will "Mop n Glow" mixed with x color achieve the same effect? Ect.

The studio does not dip. None of have tried it... I wouldn't suggest dipping unless you have no interest/time to learn to paint models since you will not be able to progress from basic to tabletop level paintjobs. But I will say that I'd much rather play against a dipped army than a all metal one

[Jake the Dog]

A few Everblight questions:
- How is the inner webbing of wings painted on models like Thagrosh the Messiah, Seraph, etc.?
- The Forces book shows how to paint red-ish lips and eyeshadow on Nyss. But how are blue-ish colored lips/eyeshadow like on Lylyth or Bethayne painted?
- Which color(s) are used for Hex Hunter tattoos?
- How is the inner blue Armor on models like Vayl, Consul of Everblight or Belfagor?

[PG_possiblyarowbot]

Good evening!

How was the effects achieved for:

The underside of the Archidon's wings
The main body armor for the Animantarax (it looks faux)

Thanks for your help.

[Michael]

Hello again Matt and Meg.

Can you offer any advice on what colors to use when painting the rich blues on Epic Vlad's cloak? I haven't painted such a large area with blues before and I am a bit apprehensive.

Thanks again!

[PPS_Meg]

Hello again Matt and Meg.

Can you offer any advice on what colors to use when painting the rich blues on Epic Vlad's cloak? I haven't painted such a large area with blues before and I am a bit apprehensive.

Thanks again!

Do you want a muted grey blue or a rich royal blue?

[Michael]

Do you want a muted grey blue or a rich royal blue?

I want whatever the official studio scheme is. I wish I could cite a reference picture, but I've only ever seen one picture that showed the studio Epic Vlad's cloak in any detail. (I can't locate that picture again at the moment.)

[Jake the Dog]

How do you guys paint dark skinned humans like Mr. "Siege" Brisbane?

Everywhere there are light skintone tutorials but dark skin ones are usually nowhere in sight.

[Blue Claw]

Fur...
Orgoth artifacts...

Thanks! Much appreciated!

[PPS_Meg]

How do you guys paint dark skinned humans like Mr. "Siege" Brisbane?

Everywhere there are light skintone tutorials but dark skin ones are usually nowhere in sight.

The way I would start is by using Umbral Umber as my basecoat, possibly mix in a dark blue or purple to that for shadows and then start mixing in some warm orange skin tones for highlights. If you google images of dark skin colors you will see there is just as much variation in them as light skinned individuals. Some have more orange tones to them, some more green. Depends on the overall look you are going for but I'd suggest starting with umbral umber for a more vibrant orange dark skin tone and battlefield brown for a dark skin tone that has more green in it.

Let me know if that helps or if you need more of a specific recipe.

[Jake the Dog]

The way I would start is by using Umbral Umber as my basecoat, possibly mix in a dark blue or purple to that for shadows and then start mixing in some warm orange skin tones for highlights. If you google images of dark skin colors you will see there is just as much variation in them as light skinned individuals. Some have more orange tones to them, some more green. Depends on the overall look you are going for but I'd suggest starting with umbral umber for a more vibrant orange dark skin tone and battlefield brown for a dark skin tone that has more green in it.

Let me know if that helps or if you need more of a specific recipe.

I was looking for a recipe to use on Brisbane himself.

[PPS_Meg]

The exact studio recipe? Otherwise, the guidelines given above can be used on Brisbane.

[Murkhadh]

On Epic Eiryss in the studio scheme. What colors are the feathers on her back painted? there is no 360 view of her on the site.

Any idea on this one?

[Jake the Dog]

The exact studio recipe? Otherwise, the guidelines given above can be used on Brisbane.

The studio recipe would be nice to know but if the guidelines give are enough, I guess it will sufice.

[PPS_Meg]

The studio recipe would be nice to know but if the guidelines give are enough, I guess it will sufice.

I can't say as to the studio recipe but using the colors I outlined above you should be able to get a really nice dark skin tone. And by dark I do mean African type skin tone. The key is making sure there is enough brown present in the mix so that the highlights don't give him a washed out look.

[TimBuckToo]

What were the colors/steps on the Warp Wolf Stalkers sword? Thanks!

[kommander_redfinger]

Hey guys,

This is a great thread! Thanks to each of you for taking the time to read and answer the questions of us...."the little people of the world...." as the Joker would say

Any way I have been through this thread, searched the forums and the internet and referenced the Skorne faction book, and I cant seem to find what p3 colors were used on the skin of the Titan's. I can see some tonal similarities between the Titan skin and the rank and file troop skin, but the Titan skin has more grey and blue in it I think. Any way if you guys could take the time and let me know, I would certainly appreciate it!

Ashton