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  1. #81

  2. #82

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    You made this look so easy!! Funny thing. I started gluing my border boards on. The first on each side looked great. The second seemed just sliiightly off. The third was ... skewed. *back to the drawing board* hehe

  3. #83

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    Thanks for the very well put and visual tutorial.. I've just started gluing my first piece of framing down

    Quick question:

    Actually on second thought I am going to draw this out instead of explaining it



    I have more 1x3x4 pieces that 1x2 and I don't have a table saw to keep a right angle cut like I would like when trimming the pieces. Is there a particular framing fundamental that I would be neglecting in doing 2 uncut 4ft pieces on each side followed by cut 1x2's perpendicular in the middle?
    Last edited by DonovanJames; 05-08-2012 at 05:41 PM.

  4. #84
    Combatant
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    So I am now extremely motivated to build one of these boards, I am finishing up some oak dice towers for my kids and their spouses so next will be a board for me, then go from there. These are exactly what I am looking for as I can't keep a board set up all the time even in my hobby room (sigh :-( ) as it is also a work out room. Just to verify, you used a laminate not pure plywood for the large base pieces?

  5. #85

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    What do you use to glue the Zuzzy (Rubber) to the Plywood surface in the folding table?

    I've just finished the table and stained + seal every surface -- I am also going to get some gloss finish to coat over it, should I not gloss the area the Zuzzy is going down on?

  6. #86

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    I know this is several months late, but for future iterations, what do you think about using a piece of dark brown leather to cap off the open end, as opposed to a separate piece of wood that needs to be clipped on? Mount it so that it wraps around the gap and just flexes outward when you fold the table open, maybe with some brass rivets to keep it in the steampunk-ish style
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  7. #87

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    Quote Originally Posted by roastduck View Post
    I know this is several months late, but for future iterations, what do you think about using a piece of dark brown leather to cap off the open end, as opposed to a separate piece of wood that needs to be clipped on? Mount it so that it wraps around the gap and just flexes outward when you fold the table open, maybe with some brass rivets to keep it in the steampunk-ish style
    I thought of this too but then came with a few conclusions about problematic issues it might face:

    1. When you open the table, assuming you will be setting it on top of another legged surface, when you push the two pieces together the leather/cloth would get bunched up in the center if it was not detachable. This may cause it to have a slight incline or bump in the center which seemed less desirable to me.

    2. When the table is closed, the two pieces need to maintain a certain rigidness to keep the latches together. A few leather straps would allow a little too much "play" in shearing for me.

  8. #88
    Conqueror ratch's Avatar
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    i Like this Table. i am considering making a 3x3 version with folding legs for my Demo Table. i want to have a good display piece as well as easily portable for demo games. i may just go the full 4x4 just cus it would be just as easy >.>

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  9. #89

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    Quote Originally Posted by ratch View Post
    i Like this Table. i am considering making a 3x3 version with folding legs for my Demo Table. i want to have a good display piece as well as easily portable for demo games. i may just go the full 4x4 just cus it would be just as easy >.>
    I would recommend the 4 x 4 since in most DIY stores like Lowe's or Home Depot a lot of the pre-fabricated cuts are in divisions of 2 x 4 or 4 x 4 and sometimes 2 x 6 but rarely you will find a 3' denomination of cut.

    If you have your own woodshop and can cut anything to fit then disregard all of this and do what you need/want
    ';

  10. #90

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    Quote Originally Posted by DonovanJames View Post
    Thanks for the very well put and visual tutorial.. I've just started gluing my first piece of framing down

    Quick question:

    Actually on second thought I am going to draw this out instead of explaining it



    I have more 1x3x4 pieces that 1x2 and I don't have a table saw to keep a right angle cut like I would like when trimming the pieces. Is there a particular framing fundamental that I would be neglecting in doing 2 uncut 4ft pieces on each side followed by cut 1x2's perpendicular in the middle?
    Nope.. no problem at all.. Its' a very forgiving project.

  11. #91

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    Quote Originally Posted by DonovanJames View Post
    I thought of this too but then came with a few conclusions about problematic issues it might face:

    1. When you open the table, assuming you will be setting it on top of another legged surface, when you push the two pieces together the leather/cloth would get bunched up in the center if it was not detachable. This may cause it to have a slight incline or bump in the center which seemed less desirable to me.

    2. When the table is closed, the two pieces need to maintain a certain rigidness to keep the latches together. A few leather straps would allow a little too much "play" in shearing for me.
    Check out Pake's folding board thread too. I was thinking about latching on a piece of wood to the bottom when folded to cover that open end. He made one and it works good. Great minds think alike!

  12. #92

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    Quote Originally Posted by DonovanJames View Post
    I thought of this too but then came with a few conclusions about problematic issues it might face:

    1. When you open the table, assuming you will be setting it on top of another legged surface, when you push the two pieces together the leather/cloth would get bunched up in the center if it was not detachable. This may cause it to have a slight incline or bump in the center which seemed less desirable to me.

    2. When the table is closed, the two pieces need to maintain a certain rigidness to keep the latches together. A few leather straps would allow a little too much "play" in shearing for me.
    Check out Pake's folding board thread too. I was thinking about latching on a piece of wood to the bottom when folded to cover that open end. He made one and it works good. Great minds think alike!

  13. #93

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    Made 2 more today. Used all 1x2 construction. cheaper and worked just as well.

  14. #94
    Annihilator Pake's Avatar
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    Oddly enough, I couldn't be bothered to post these in my own thread
    This is what I came up with regarding the handles.





    They're 8mm steel pipe, although I'm gonna replace them with 8mm stainless steel pipe. Not for extra sturdiness but for more bling. Completely removable, super fast to put in place and they carry the weight of the table without bending at all.

    Poppabear, sorry for threadjacking.
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  15. #95

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    brother, my threads are your threads! Feel free to post what ever you like! LOve those handles! very very cool.

  16. #96

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    These tables are amazing, great job. I was thinking about doing something similar to this, but wanted to make somthing that could be used for both Warmahordes and GW games.

    What are your thoughts on how to proceed with a board that is either a tri-fold, or has a detachable 2x4 section? That way I can use a 4x4 for Warmahordes and 4x6 for GW games.

    Also, what about creating 2x2 squares that can be placed in and out of the frame for different configurations? Would that be possible in this kind of set up?

    Again, great work and thanks for sharing!

  17. #97
    Conqueror macgowan's Avatar
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    I went 4x8. That way I have one biggish GW table, or two side-by-side WM tables.

  18. #98

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    For personal use I can't imagine ever needing two 4x4 at once.

    I'm thinking now of making a 4x6 board that folds in the middle, with a "divider" board that can be used to block off a 2' wide section when using the 4x4 part. Thta way there is not confusing folds, and it can be used for both.

  19. #99
    Conqueror HarmoniousBorealis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magless View Post
    For personal use I can't imagine ever needing two 4x4 at once.

    I'm thinking now of making a 4x6 board that folds in the middle, with a "divider" board that can be used to block off a 2' wide section when using the 4x4 part. Thta way there is not confusing folds, and it can be used for both.
    That's the plan that I was going to go on, before we realised how much 3/8" plywood can sag when left leaning for a week

    The divider board makes a good set-up spot, too.

  20. #100
    Conqueror HarmoniousBorealis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by magless View Post
    For personal use I can't imagine ever needing two 4x4 at once.

    I'm thinking now of making a 4x6 board that folds in the middle, with a "divider" board that can be used to block off a 2' wide section when using the 4x4 part. Thta way there is not confusing folds, and it can be used for both.
    That's the plan that I was going to go on, before we realised how much 3/8" plywood can sag when left leaning for a week

    The divider board makes a good set-up spot, too.

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